1445

Vernos again this morning. Swell not showing yet. Hopefully it doesn't have too much South in it to get to Punta Mita. At best shoulder high, but mostly waist high. Water is nice and warm though!

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1445

Head high on set at Veneros. Local pack was lighter this morning so I actually scored a few set waves. Long rights and throwing short lefts. Water about 80-85. Building South is supposed to light this place up by Sat. Stoked!

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2450
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2450

Making the most of what's around.

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569

I have not been surfing too much lately. Just doesn’t seem like it makes sense to get in a wetsuit to battle the winds, fog and crappy wind swell. Was hanging in the mountains for a while. Flew down south for a while too. Recently I was thinking about fall and when things actually sometime get to be fun around here. I dug this one up. Not a great surf photo. The tide is too high.

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966

Posting for a friend:

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2

Superbrand Toy
6'0 x 19.5
Swallow Tail

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2

Rusty Traveler - like new
$500.00 or best offer

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993

And other reasons to be happy to be alive

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1938
Rant - Woodies

Another guy making woodies for a coupla G's.

http://www.ammunitiongroup.com/work/octovo-tilley/ shows a nice wooden surfboard.

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395

I spent a couple hrs out there from 3-5. It was bigger than normal for this time of year with some big fat windswell sets. It was also packed on the beach and in the lineup for a Monday. I guess summer vacation isn't just for children anymore! You know it's crowded when you see 3 different dudes in a small area using hand planes, one of whom was using a plastic fast-food tray from T@c0 Bell. I called it a day after getting a 1-inch chunk taken out of the side of my board, courtesy of someone who was in my way shortly after i took off on one. Oh well, more ding repair is in order.

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14336

For that crazy surfer in you who wouldn’t give up surfing even in winters, a group of like-minded surfers in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, have created a portable barrel-shaped sauna.

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1445

HH+ and not much wind, but the swell was all mixed up and the current was pulling hard. Probably went about 500 yards N just paddling out. Oh, and the paddle wasn't a whole lot of fun either. I definitely saw some promising waves, but only once was I in the right place at the right time. Glad I paddled out, and it's been awhile since I've seen some legit size out there, but it was a lot of work for just a little reward.

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14336

Greg Noll Surf Movie from the 50's and early 60's . Born February 11, 1937, nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of "charging" down the face of a wave, is an American pioneer of big wave surfing and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper.

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