The end of the holiday season has been fantastic out at the Beach. On Sunday afternoon I left the board at home, picked up my camera and fins and swam out to record the last session before most headed back to the grind.
It's true. Look at all the negativity surrounding this site. Crowds, kooks, Malibu north (horror) angry old dudes that hate transplants (LOL?!). That's the negativity around surfing in general. A competitive bunch of ego driven, self centered "stoke chasers". Stressed coz that dude was deeper than you, coz you fell in front of the crowd, coz you can't quite get that backhand snap you want.
The horror. Today was the most crowded I've ever seen my little patch of OB. Boards flying, drop ins everywhere. Complete lack of etiquette/ knowledge from just about everyone. Saw one guy screaming at everyone to respect each other. WTF??? I guess no more surfing OB when its under head high...
I have the opportunity (I think) of getting out there in early Feb - wondering if anybody's stayed there? feel free to email me if you've got the info. vibe? accommodations? etc etc. yeah, the wave is nice, but...
it looks like they've recently moved into new digs which look kinda 'eh, so, you know, let me know...
Many people may not realize that Buzz Besozzi of Bolinas started the first surf shop north of San Francisco, back in the late 1950s. Buzz was a great shaper and I think most people who had a Buzz board will remember that board fondly. Buzz doesn't make boards anymore but he still has the Bolinas Surf Shop, a little place on Wharf Road, just around the corner in its same old location.
I personally feel like leashes hold me back from expressing myself when shredding barrels but if you happen to be into leashes because you almost drown swimming through the impact zone on double OH day you might find this video interesting.
I have a Matt Moore surfboard for sale. There are some dings that were repaired right away, otherwise it’s watertight. I’ve only ridden it a couple of times. It turned out that I needed more of a beginner board. 7’0” X 19 3/8” X 2 5/8” $275. S.F.
december 23rd: kirk was good, powder lines to be found.
december 25th: heavenly on christmas with only the gondola open , skipped the 9:30am morning line of around 500 (seriously) and went back at 2pm . somehow managed to bypass the line of 100 to the top. when you see an open door, gotta take it right? like a hole in the matrix. didn't realize those thousands of people who had been lifted to the top throughout the day would also need a way down. got in line for the gondola down at 3:30 and it was still stretched hundreds deep as we finally got on our dark and cold ride around 5:30.