Finally got to score one of the S swell focal points that has always seemed to skunk me. Clean, HH-OH+ and just heaving. Was almost as fun to watch the boys huck themselves into the barrels as it was to be hucked. Lots of stoke and sunburn in the water.

"Apparently "the boys" are not as stoked about drawing attention to the fact that the most ..."

"to the uninformed, there is zero in his post that shows or describes anything. if you know ..."

"nickski did a perfectly fine job. not so much the clown-suit clad swarm that followed ..."

"Pretty nice picture though...know what I'm sayin?"

"i still cant vote"

Sidewalk surfing the new pavement on 48 th is very good today (and every day). I didn't want to be that 37 year old guy on a skateboard, but I am and it's great. What took me so long, it's so awesome... And this Hess board. Wow. It's closer to surfing than I've ever felt on a skateboard.

"which Hess model do you have? http://hesssurfboards.com/skateboards/ And can you reco ..."

Bros from the Great Lakes would likely call my afternoon session all time. More than enough wind dappled mini walls to make this kook happy. No one out. Although the crash of dolphins would be weird on Lake Superior.

"Is that Mr. T paddling out?"

Timed it based on tide, swell, and wind forecasts and was rewarded with some tasty waves topped with stoke sprinkles. Crowds were avoidable, sun was shining bright, waves were crumbly but workable waist-shoulder high lefts and rights.

Spotted: Dolphins, seals, and - rarest of all - human females in bikinis tanning on the beach. Call me Ice Cube, cuz It Was a Good Day.

"It was a one of those rare days in the sunset. I was stokeed to get out there."

"where i was the waves were far from crumbly and more like thumping dredging barrels or clo ..."

"Spent the session drifting south, kind of ok except for a magical 10 minute window where i ..."

"'twas fun out there today fellas"

"Hmmm that's not the picture I uploaded"

Canggu, Bali - 4-8 feet with plenty of power. Saw a local guy snap his longboard in half. Got some really fun ones at echo beach until my buddy cut his foot and we had to get out. I don't want to leave this place.

Man that sucked.

Variable w/nw wind. Swell is half (or less) than yesterday.

"sucked is an understatement but it wasn't crowded for me... it was lonely"

"What a difference a day makes."

Good times. Almost glassy. Not a person in sight north or south of me. Shark bait.

"Almost glassy!? I am sofa king pissed that I missed it."

"Consolation prize for missing it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LxS3ScFwrc"

"And for you Mr _shiver I recommend your online activities be restricted to e-mails and wor ..."

"@piss: just when you think that the internet can't get any better ..."

"I have been remanded into custody! (Hopefully like that SUP stabbing, car-keying "lawyer") ..."

Kauai, actually. Evening session yesterday with WH-HH peaks in Poipu thanks to some southern hemi/trade swell mix. Got plenty of fun lefts and rights with a small friendly crowd. The warm water is a welcome change. Heading to Hanalei tomorrow...

"the outer outer outer outer OUTER bars at sfob were firing you say? :)"

"Monday at honolua wasn't too shabby either. "

"Nice.. good to hear. I'm headed there next week (first time to HI) and was afraid it was ..."

The usual spots looked mehh on the early am low, but the unusual spots seemed to have a little more spunk to em. A decent amount of CH zipping rights and I am ready for the office! #beatscoffee

Good waves to be had this morning. Glorious sunny day. HH+ and reasonably clean. Stoked!

"Tom, I think Ali might have a point here. You can't claim Florida and The Tenderloin at th ..."

"Oh Inverted World"

"looked fun today. a bit mushy and a bit small but folks were getting some screamers! "

"pretty dumb... Flipping photos and mis-spelling street names is getting way tired.If you w ..."

"Tom- what kind of idiot wants to fight becuase I don't like a photo?Grow the fuck up..."

Fair surfing today at a super secret right-hand point break.

Loads of guys out getting decent waves, although not as good as the last few days. Despite the crowd saw quite a few waves going unridden.

"Makes me a little dizzy."

"I'm so confused."

"dumb."

"I'm with wavecraver. Nice shots though!"

A few wide ones. Fair- however, there were some bombs. Good way to start the season. Im over Fall. Bring on the Winter.

went further north where a guy got bit recently but survived. I hit up some mysto waves with a shaper up there and it was unfucn believable. the paddle out took nearly 50 min b/c it was so far but omg was it worth it.