the usual at punto del placer. shoulder high, clean, lully. there are two or three things that kept it from a good minus: relativity, as in comparison must be apples to apples, not apples to lindy/OB; crowds (duh); and the last is my fault, the mind. there are so many things that convince me that i'm a shittier surfer than i really am, and one of them is crowds. i really dislike dropping in on people, so i hem and haw. when i think, oh they've got it, they don't, and then it's too late. when i do a little insurance paddle, the deeper person invariably makes it. when i paddle away from the crowd, which on a day like today makes sense due to peaks popping up in a variety of places, i think, hey, here comes one my way with my name all over it, only to be bested by some guy who has the place so fucking dialed that he just appears out of nowhere (and not even in a dick kind of way) to be in a slightly more perfect spot than i.
my physical skills aren't all world, but it sucks when the reason you suck is because your mind sucks. suck!