Friday late AM session, delayed postage. A friend and I made the drive on my day off despite expecting waist high sets. Had a first: took a wave immediately upon paddleout. Didn't stop to sit up on board, just spun around and went. Took another one as soon as I got back. Two waves in two minutes? Didn't step on anyone's toes, either. Just right time/place, so why wait?
Thawed my toes after about an hour and a half, then switched to my friend's log. Man, did I bring the wrong board / skill set. Had more fun in 40 minutes on the log than I've had in my last 7 or 8 sessions trying to figure out the fish. Admittedly, it had picked up, but damn, that was fun.