Solid 8-10' with regular 12' sets coming through. Heavy water flowing at the point. Coast guard boat, copter, and jet ski - check. Took out the shortboard with a new leash. Super long paddle out to the point - check. Set wave - check! A couple medium sized waves - check. Five wave clean up set on the head - check. Second broken leash of the week - full on freakin paddle back in from the point - check!
Was ok with with the swim back in, and several cool folks saying they'd keep an eye on me. Thought for sure the board would have washed down to Capitola with all the water flowing. Almost back to shore and my favorite surfer of all time is paddling back out on my board with his trailing behind him. Super rad, count my blessings, thanks awesome surfer dude experience - check!