Strong winds and some decent energy, stoked

recent photo.stay stoked-

"Drizzly otter picnic under a rainbow." Everything in that statement is fact, truth. Except for the rainbow. It was a little too cloudy for that. Oh, the waves? Funny you should mention that. Yeah they're there. A little warbly at times. We paddled over to that one point and caught a few oh-gonna-remember-this-for-a-while waves... the other spots were more modest, chest-high. But the lulls... looooong lulls. Better to enjoy the otter company.

"After some loooooong rides, tired legs, and a heap of paddling, I was a little grateful fo ..."

"u won the l'ottery :)"

"Glad to hear it. I got there at about 12:30. Felt kind of high-tidey. Wonky and hard to li ..."

"I haven't surfed in 2 weeks, i forget what it feels like. Super jealous! Stoked you scored ..."

fools be shredding.

Shockingly low crowds due to some minor warble and weather. I had a ton of fun and had an absurdly high wave count for Santa Cruz. Head high to nine foot. Some real long rides on tap for those that picked the right ones.

As I was walking down for my second sesh, dude said to me "It's like a wave factory!". Sure was between 7a and 12p. Sorta warberly, but fun none the less. Some bad vibes in the line up but great day no matter. I'm tired now, so I shall sleep.

"Very fun out there. So nice to get quality face time. I was out on the early shift too, no ..."

very fun afternoon out there. sunny, warm and plenty of swell, good times

Fun in the sun this morning as we toured the highs and lows of the one side of town. We saw and slid down the steep OH peaks at that one point (just before those peaks slid onto us). We slid along a few fun CH ones at somethingoranother street. Then we let the current carry us (for freeeeeee) to some other spot near our cars which had some long peely fun action. Took a wave too far and ended up getting pushed around yet another corner, but I was ready to get out. Had to paddle waaaaay back around... and well... you get it.

Conditions were mixed: there's a fair amount of warble on those faces. Bit of a crowd at points. Barely a breeze though, sunny. Fun.

"If i'd had a running dialog of my surf this morning it would be something like: Yaaaaay ..."

"I hit that yesterday. Double overhead sets and lined up to the inside if you picked the ri ..."

no wind, long lulls and heavy crowd but tons of fun today.

"I went Friday, only 8 guys on the peak, HH+, well worth the trip and personal day"

Peely and weirdly peaky at a place that often isn't. A little soft, but I'm a big boy who can will myself into waves with the help of my trusty steed, right? Off-crowd fun.

Messed around with the goAmateur wrist mount. Interesting way to critique my footwork and front arm form.

Wow. Lots of smiling folks paddling around, but I think there were even more waves than people. Beauty-eous HH+ lining up all along this little neighborhood of the coast. Peelers that go on and on and onnnnnn... the paddle back to the take-off-zone was loooooooonnng (and totally worth it).

Caught a looooong sectiony wave from ### to ### (is that vague enough?). Saw @T blast across a steep pumping wave and land gently in the impact zone just before a realbig set steamed through. Boom! At least it pushed us back to the parking lot.

"Yeah, but how did der wagen do?"

"Cazart: It got there! That realbig set hurt. I took all 5 waves on the head, including ..."

"it's a long line of wrecks on the road to radical"

"@caz- Der Wagen got me there in style as usual. I had a moment of freakout when I was goin ..."

"Nothing worse than a lyin', backstabbin' gas gauge. "

Took the drive down with my brand new, custom made board from Sunset Shapers. Amazing how different the surfing experience is there. No shore break at all, long peeling rights (if a little mushy), and concentrated take off zone. Took awhile to get lined up. Eventually got some of the longest rides I've ever had. Not bad. Not bad at all.

"yes, i've heard tell some ppl call them point breaks ;)"

Solid 8-10' with regular 12' sets coming through. Heavy water flowing at the point. Coast guard boat, copter, and jet ski - check. Took out the shortboard with a new leash. Super long paddle out to the point - check. Set wave - check! A couple medium sized waves - check. Five wave clean up set on the head - check. Second broken leash of the week - full on freakin paddle back in from the point - check!

Was ok with with the swim back in, and several cool folks saying they'd keep an eye on me. Thought for sure the board would have washed down to Capitola with all the water flowing. Almost back to shore and my favorite surfer of all time is paddling back out on my board with his trailing behind him. Super rad, count my blessings, thanks awesome surfer dude experience - check!

"Yikes! Glad you made it in okay. Who was your knight in shining armour? You don't want ..."

"Wish I knew his name! I told him I owed him a 6 pack, but he was paddling back out to the ..."

"Ncal, just out of curiosity what brand of leash were you using and what size board were yo ..."

"Was riding an 8' board with a Da Kine leash."

"This pic is of a smaller set breaking inside near Jack's house - still a good 6-7'"