very fun out there YESTERDAY afternoon, lined up, clean and solid lines delivering stoke for the usual suspects at somewhere else location, after a month surfing land of the lefts this welcome back exceeded my expectations, stoked !

"Tip of the hat to this spot. Had it all to myself in the morning while everyone else chec ..."

Totally scored down south today! Super fun SH/HH waves and a pleasant crowd. Maybe 20 people in the water but everyone seemed stoked. I was surprised to score such fun surf today. Super Stoked!

The local haunt looked like a little too much for me so south I went. Showed up and there were about four guys out. That number went to about forty within an hour. Even with the maxed tide things were fairly lined up and pounding, but there were easily connectable soft spots in between sections. Solid nine foot plus sets were coming through and tapping the edge of my at ease comfort level. Definitely took a couple walls to the dome. Gotta love those channels though. Tons of water moving around and tons of current. I'd call it good based on wave quality and consistency, although I struggled with a lot of paddling and competition and only managed four waves in a couple hours.

That was one of the best sessions I've had in a while. Four turn waves can be hard to find in S.F. It was shoulder to head high with overhead sets, clean, and lined up for days. Crowded, but manageable. I picked off about six waves in an hour and half and even nabbed a couple sets. For Santa Cruz, I'd call that a high wave count. Really glad I made the drive...

Small and not too crowded. Got my fill. My agent neglected to inform me that they would be shooting today, though. I'll have to give him what for!

Surfed Eastside near where all the construction is and several streets north of Jack's house. Solid 3-5' mushburgers which my 9'6" Junod made exceptional work of. Shortboarders struggled with the high tide, crowds were light, sun was shining, seals and otters playing in the lineup. Good times. Short period and many drops with no shoulders, but those in the know could pick off the good ones. It's fun out there!

""...and several streets north of Jack's house..." Due north of Jack O'Neil's house is d ..."

"bout time, thanks duncan, 1 up."

Tiny, warbled by a strong pulse of southerly wind swell from big sur. but hey a shitty nugget or 2 was on offer and when does surfing ever totally suck? Even talked my way out of a speeding ticket......

HH lumpy shifty windswell with decent punch to it. one or two good lines with each set.

Surfed eastside this morning from 7:15 - 9:00am south of Jack's house and the hullabaloo of the construction. Fun knee high sliders with occasional 2 wave waist high set. Not too crowded and almost entirely old dudes on logs. Giving it a good because I scored several long rights all the way to the beach :P

PastryReport:
Headed to the west side to #####'s [my censor] for a bear claw and an eclair (for any lucky lady who might cross my path with a hankering for a 6-8hr old, melted eclair.)

"mmm. head high burrclaw. "

"Pastry-port."

"Well said, frisc"

Played the part of the sacrificial lamb today and surfed so those working didn't have to. For several hours I endured paddling into peely waist-chest rights for some yawningly long rides. Be grateful you were at your desk typing a lot. Went after mostly shoulder head high set waves early on so all you sinners could take er easy earning your bread. Thank God that's over.

http://instagr.am/p/PaOW8/

rolled out on the east side at 8 this morning to OH sets and a only three other people at the spot. LOoooooNg glassy right with a coincedentally long paddle back out... the best I have had in a long time, definately worth the drive.

Monterey County - other- yesterday. Went on a lil' road trip and was pleasantly surprised to find super clean shoulder high runners with an occasional, rare head high set. Some long rides and some practice-worthy closeout barrels. Not a touch of wind and the clearest water I've ever seen in the state. Surfed til' the sun set; golden and shimmering. Fun times.