Another "Sweetness and Blood" Review

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"SURFING, with its risk-taking, expanses of taut flesh and sun-bleached hair, has been the coolest sport for more than half a century. To the uninitiated this masks an important truth. Surfing is more akin to fly-fishing or bird-watching than to parachute jumping or alligator wrestling. Waves, more often than not, are no good for riding. Surfing involves lots of waiting around and nerdy discussions of equipment. Surfers must rise early in the morning (when the waves tend to be best) or risk losing the right to gloat to others about how they should have been here earlier."

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