The Barrel that Broke my Back

That's really scary

Incredibly scary!
I'm having crazy Flashbacks to hitting the cliff at the lane.
He had it a lot worse ... I was back in the water after a month.

ugh... I am sick to my stomach. That freaked me out. Stay safe out there.

Props to the surfers who came together to help JT. Sitting around, making a wind barrier with boards, and keeping his spirits up...small things that make a world of difference and never make the news.

@Zurffy: at what part of the break did you hit the cliff?

It was right at the slot. I was "shooting the cliff" in my younger stupid days... it was a small day at high tide so it was pretty sketchy and sure enough... closeout... dive... smack my back. ouch... tried to paddle ouch... tried to stand up on the inside ouch.... walked my bike home... ouch... ouch... ouch.... passed out in my wetsuit...
hospital next day.
Hairline fractured L1 and L2. Just a cane and a pillow... and a bad mood

first of all where is that? it looks like a heavy wave. Also, did anyone notice how he snaked the sponger on the first wave...karma?!

It's somewhat unclear what happens imo, is it durring the dismount on his second wave?

I too have hit the cliff underwater bc of people in the wave. no big deal but i did cut my suit / hands and bruised my knee.