I got swept off the point at Steamer Lane on a big day a long time back... it was on the slope before the little platform above the "steps" (as I said, it was BIG). I skidded down on my ass with my board under one arm, one hand down, which got gouged by a stub of rebar on the way down (stigmata!), then in a semi-controlled way, bunny-jumped at the edge of the platform and there I was, just in time to take a huge set on the head.
I have nightmares about getting caught inside there.
I'm sorry no one picked up the ball with my request for gnarly surf stories! There's nuthin' better on a crappy surf day, of which we have had no end lately.
2 years ago
That's the best thing I've seen in a long time.
2 years ago
Poor bastard. At least he fell on his sponge.
I got swept off the point at Steamer Lane on a big day a long time back... it was on the slope before the little platform above the "steps" (as I said, it was BIG). I skidded down on my ass with my board under one arm, one hand down, which got gouged by a stub of rebar on the way down (stigmata!), then in a semi-controlled way, bunny-jumped at the edge of the platform and there I was, just in time to take a huge set on the head.
2 years ago
Yipes. That sounds pretty scary.
2 years ago
I have nightmares about getting caught inside there.
I'm sorry no one picked up the ball with my request for gnarly surf stories! There's nuthin' better on a crappy surf day, of which we have had no end lately.
2 years ago
Ahhh, now that's graceful. I guess we know why he doesn't surf. Someone send him a balance trainer.