Gnarly surf stories

Bored with the windy flatness!

Here's a gnarly surf story, from my travel diary last year. It may not seem that hardcore (and it was written to be understood by my non-surfing friends), but it was one of the scarier trapped-by-the-rocks experiences I've had:

http://jonathanghess.blogspot.com/2008/03/interesting-day-part-two-art-o...

Anyway, I'm bored. Would love to read your gnarly near-death-experiences while surfing- please share, in rants or comments.