Was just reading "unsung"...
Would love to hear some of your first hand accounts of your heaviest/scariest day in the water.
If we could all pass over anything to do with Linda Mar that would be greatly appreciated..
I broke a board over my thigh during TS Beryl in the outer banks a few years ago. It wasn't that big nor heavy, but it was punchy and definitely ruined my day. Pulled into a barrel, went over the falls, came down in a sitting position right on top of my inside rail. I was pulling fiberglass out of my leg for the next couple of days.
Thanksgiving '92. Discovering that "It doesn't look THAT big"-OB is every bit that big and more. I still have nightmares.
Had an OB Oh Sh!t moment two years ago in fall- Was very big and lots of water moving- figured I'd give it a shot and see if I could get out, thinking I'd get pushed back but at least could say I went for it.
Ended up getting out rather easily, only to find myself drifting to Seal Rock and beyond much faster than I preferred.
And the waves were much larger than I thought.
Couldn't paddle into one, started realizing i was kind of f'd and above my pay grade. Decided to just let myself get blown up by an outside set that would hopefully push me back inside.
It worked. I got bitch-slapped by mother ocean but held onto my board and popped up after the beat down. Was lucky enough to see the next wave, slightly smaller, break a bit more inside and right in front of me. Bitch-slapping ensued again.
Popped up- was able to gain traction getting in on the whitewater. Arrived on the beach like the total kook I was.
Walking back to my car up the beach, thankful for my luck and knowing that that was a rather stupid endeavor- I heard a guy ask "Dude, pretty good out there, yeah?". I sheepishly nodded.
micronesia outer island. me and brian and one local guy in an outrigger (with an outboard). big clean swell running. got out of the boat anyway coz the waves looked so amazing. waiting ten minutes, edging in. looked behind me - huge cleanup set. got whomped. boat comes in to get me, boatman looks outside, sees a set and runs for it, leaving me to paddle like fk for the horizon. scratched over the waves, thinking each one would be have the one behind it that would kill me.
made it out, just barely, scared shitless, knowing that the boat was inside and the channel could now be closing out for hours, or a day - baking sun, no water etc etc. finally, boat shows up in between sets, we run like mad for the inside, surf the last of a set with the outrigger, get back to shore and drink many, many beers. good story based on a bad decision...
Big Day at OB, solo sesh, tide pulling out to sea hard....it was really hard to get back inside. There were two Aussies paddling in as I was making it out.....and from there I was totally alone. When I did make it to the lineup, I took off on a nice one but didn't make the section and got swallowed by a house sized ball of white water. Popped up felling lucky only to have my board smash my face. It was one of those....don't touch your face because there may be a hole in it moments, and I didn't want to go into shock. Saw stars and almost passed out. I realized I was being sucked out again and tried paddling...again....then I noticed a huge puddle of blood forming on my board and really started to paddle a little more thinking of the landlord....Luckily there was a nice shoulder to hop that I bellied in and got to the shore. Some passer by checked my face out along the way in and said "That's the shot of the day!" hahah. had a good laugh. I don't really like to surf alone anymore after that. If you get knocked out there will be no one to help you or no one to see.
Not really a heavy story, but if I didn't get some good advice, I know I would definitely have some:
When I first moved to SFOB I was sitting in the back of my truck watching the waves, about to suit up for my first session ever at Ocean Beach. It was summer slop so no big deal. Another surfer pulls up next to me and asks me how it looks. We ended up talking for a bit and I tell him I just moved up here from SD and today was my first session at Ocean Beach. Before we paddled out he gave me some advice for the Fall and Winter months. He said something to the effect: "if it's big, especially a long period swell, watch the waves for awhile. It'll look calm and inviting, then all of a sudden bombs will start rolling in." He told me about the long, brutal paddle outs, but he also warned me that getting in can be as hazardous and save enough energy to get back in. He told me about the crazy currents and rips and know what the tides are doing.
We ended up having a fun session and he paddled in earlier than I did. I've never seen that guy again, but if it weren't for his advice I know that I would have been caught in some serious situations.
Lamest session ever... on a decent sized day at OB, I blew my very first wave, and the leash broke. I swam in, getting pounded. Couldn't find my board anywhere. This jogger lady says, hey is that your board out there? It had gotten caught in a rip, and ended up back out to sea, past the lineup. Swam back out and got my board. I had to belly one back in, I was so toast.
Huge swell last year, and took out El Gringo, my green 6'4. Figured I'd search for some solitude and not even haggle with any of you guys, not that I'd have to haggle too much given the conditions.... :) So I ended up at Monscara/Monster Tiara/whatevs. Not a soul out as predicted. One guy watching from the cliffs as I trek down. He didn't want it. Not a bit. Bombs are clearly coming through so I paddle out during this long period swell, and scratch over one where I thought I would totally get the business end of. So I wait...and wait...and sort of bide my time with some sets just to get a feel. Then, another huge set comes in and I knew it was go time, and time to man up and stop pussy footin round. That was the plan anyway...What happened next was another botched takeoff that I pulled out of, but the board kept going.....pullllll.....tick *SHIT*. Bye bye board. I pull the leash in, and oh shit I see the nylon loop which meant only one thing: Plug had catastrophic failure. Then, as you would guess, it was time to see what I was made of. I tried swimming in but got pulled back out and these huge fucking sets kept coming, and short of panicking that's where it occurred to me, this really could be it. So I kept swimming in and decided in was better than back out, and my best bet was to just pay by taking a couple of these bombs on the head. And that's exactly what happened. Completely blown up a few times, and exhausted I got to the sand and a dog walker gave me my now broken at the plug board. Would I have gone back out? Yes, but the board was busted with no ability to tie to a leash. I don't get those 'oh shit' moments, but that one did it to me. :)
Tyler, similar story...
Started at outside ######, and towards the end of the session let the current take me a bit.
By the ######, it was clear that the bars were a whole lot more shallow/pronounced, and cold gray waves were jacking and detonating harder and harder.
I'd court one, only to find the take-off spot was pretty much postage-stamp sized and steep, steep. It only shrank moving North.
There's that 'I'm going to bag one" feeling, followed by a 'OK, c'mon now...' followed by 'Whip me, beat me, let me lay face down in your dirty sea water... just as long as you let me in'
There's nothing like trying with a friend, and when hurt, shooting video of friend going for it. Don on 2/6/05 in pix attached. ######.
And then there's that beauty: one day I was lucky enough to make it over the first of what turned out to be a solid double-digit set. Each one a scratch further out. Each one a picture-perfect bomb. And you get past the last and wait alone.
Summer 2004 Balangan Bali. Caught inside in some 10+ sets. Thinking I could making it back out but the swell was on the ups and I was getting washed down the reef. Finally I think I make it past the impact zone and the set of the summer decides to remove me from the lineup and pin me to the reef. I remember I finally come up for air and the whole sky turned pink and I was seeing stars. lack of oxygen. I got back to the beach and watch the most amazing waves of my life. Those indian ocean swells come up fast.
Same trip but out at G-Land on a medium sized wave. Made a bad turn and came down hands first. shredded my palms on that razor sharp reef. Both hands bleeding. Made a nice blood trail from the beach back to Joyo's.
The Agony-
Story 1
Last winter I got caught inside a wave that was not a wave but a building. I looked up at it 2 times larger than anything that day. It was a 3 story building! I stopped everything. Took deep breaths knowing i wouldnt make it over this beast so why waist the energy and as it approached I dove as deep as my leash would let me. It came and even 7 foot deep was not enough. I got abused and spun around under water relaxing my body as much as possible to let the beast have its way with me, I emerged 20 seconds or so later. Sumersaults under water -- I came up and got a breath before the next wave came down on me. That was the cherry on top. I had 2 seconds before that 2nd smaller 10 foot one came but was suprised it was there. HOw could a wave that big be followed closely by another smaller wave??? What is never talked about is that it really sucks being underwater when its 50 degrees and on top of it you are tensing somewhat with hands over head so my board doesnt get any funny ideas and knock me out and so my head doesnt get whiplash.. The cold water makes it much much worse.
Story 2
I thought I made it over the beast but I got sucked over the back of a triple overhead bomb at the ###### of the beach when the sets kept coming farther and farther out. that was the scariest thing that ever happened. I was breathless when I got done and went right in with my tail between my legs talking to myself.
THE ECSTASY
Picture if you will a wintry cold day in December. Bombs coming through at 18 sec intervals from the north. triple overhead. Clean and pumping. EPIC The beach has 50 yard wide channels that get hosed every 15 minutes when a set that shouldn't be steamrolls right through that channel.
The lips take 2 to 3 seconds before they fall then explode. There are 20 or 30 people scattered out here and there. Some taking drops and going straight down the line looking tiny.
I am nervous. People are seemingly 300 yards out there. As always on big days time stops. Everything I do is slower and deliberate except taking off which is deliberate and fast as I can. I take deep breaths and check my leash one last time looking for anything that looks off. Its the new leash I got for the winter. I paddle out. Slowly through the land of the giants. THe thought of sharks is gone and replaced by thinking of what happens if my leash breaks or if I go over the falls.
Covered head to toe with rubber I take off on my first wave and have to paddle hard as possible to make it become a ramp and not a launch pad. As I feel myself moving with the wave and going straight down the line the wave stands up - I am not on a wave but I am a passenger standing on the top of a physical train complete with plumes of steam. I am going as fast as I have ever gone on a wave.
Its about like getting barreled on a smaller wave and being the pearl. Thrilling.
OB. New year's eve, 2008. Alaska side. Pulled into a closeout barrel and got sucked up and over the inside of the falls. I balled up and covered my head in case I landed on the board. That made me into a nice, compact size. Perfect for bouncing off the bottom. Mother OB bounced me off the sand like a basketball. I felt my ribs snap on impact. Fortunately when I came up I was in close enough that the paddle in wasn't hard. Was able to get to the car and get my wetsuit off and get home. The next day was when the pain set in. Couldn't cough, laugh, or take a crap for two months without passing out from pain. Good times.
But actually the heaviest situation I was ever in was at 56th St in Newport Beach. Huge South hurricane swell. I was getting ripped North while trying to get outside, facing out and paddling hard. All of a sudden the water sucked out from under me as a big set wave was rearing up and I found myself standing on the end of a rock jetty, about to get driven into it like a pile driver. I threw my board to the North of the jetty and dove. Got very lucky.
Nov. 2, 2009,
After getting pistol whipped back to the beach on a shortboard, I drove all the way back home and grabbed a beat up old 6'6'. I spent 45 minutes paddling out at Kirkham street to make it out to the line up, all by myself.
Dodging DOH+ freight trains out the back, every direction I looked I saw waves; my only reference to land was to face perpendicular to the waves and reassure myself that land was somewhere over there; I felt like I was 7 years old again, hoping that a lifeguard or my dad would keep on eye on me. I was absolutely insignificant, and humbled.
Finally after about 20 minutes of terror, the currents brought me together with 3 other humans; this reassured me that my decision to paddle out may have been semi-reasonable. All of us had paddled out alone and each face seemed to reflect happiness for having come together.
After another 15 minutes of maneuvering, towards waves, around waves, paddling for waves, an A frame lined up for me and I got the biggest barrel of my life. I noticed some sand in the water and kicked out, the small pack of surfers I left were lost in an endless line of incoming breakers. I scratched on the surface for my life as a TOH breaker ripped towards me like a 17 foot steam roller.
I suddenly wondered if I should hold onto my board or let go, if I let go my leash could snap, If I held on the board could hit me under water.
I held on. Within milliseconds after duckdiving, the board smashed into my face like a ton of bricks, then ripped out of my hands and disappeared in the blackness as I received the worst submarine beat down of my life. Through the blackness, I felt the pull of my leash as I was held down which eased my discomfort and panic.
I came up within blood poring out of my nose, but happy my board was in one piece and still attached to get me back home.
This was a very good post. I really had to think back. To be honest, although I've surfed all over California, Hawaii, Indonesia etc. I never had an experience when I said OMFG I'm gonna die, or I almost died. I've never been into "big" waves and I guess when it was extra gnarly out I always preferred to watch from the shore.
There were a few times when I was pretty scared (e.g. being caught inside at Honolua and almost getting pushed into the cave), but they weren't particularly heavy experiences.
My heaviest experience with the ocean came when I was fishing. I was way out on a point of rocks at Hobbitland, on Maui. Although it was March, there was virtally no swell. After a couple of hours the tide was coming in quite a bit, though, so I decided to leave. I was carrying my buckets and walking from rock to rock. Suddenly I noticed that out of nowhere, a huge swell was heading toward me. It broke right across the point of rocks. It was literally a rogue wave, well overhead. I crouched behind a rock and held on with my fingertips, but quickly got swept into the water with my buckets. After some washing machine action and being scraped up a bit I climbed back up and continued home. Fortunately, no bumps on the head or any broken bones. I lost my fish, though I still had my pole and buckets.
January 9, 2010. Couldn't outrace the lip. Yard sale. Took a few more on the head. Good times.
1983 West swell; the point in Ventura. didn't know what I was doing and ended up getting swept thru the pier. barfed all over my aleeda when I got in. Still remember the coppertone baby ad on the trash can that I found on the sand.
1995- Jalama Beach 8foot20 second NZ swell. Got it good in the morning; then went back to SB to get the guns. Stroked for my first wave at T's, got scared and tried to turn around. Went over the falls backwards sitting on my board turned towards the horizon and snapped the (borrowed) 7'2" Cort Gion between my legs. Had a tail and a mat of fiberglass flapping and sawing at me and was right in the impact zone. Bellied that tail in after a couple beatings with my own tail between my legs. Even though my friend got serious entertainment value out of my predicament; he stayed out all day killing it. Then he made me pay him for his snapped Gion. Fair enough I guess. should have given that session a pass. I know I would now. That scared me off of big waves forevermore.
But a few years later I learned that a tail to float you is better than no board at all. And that big waves can happen to scared but greedy surfers looking for their fix. Night rincon, leash gave out right when I was stuck on the bottom; the waves were building so they were big and I was way the heck out there. Felt the velcro give around my ankle while I was at the bottom and my board was tugging my leg from the top and knew then I was good and screwed. Swam up, popped up gulping right as the next wave was upon me with my board coming right at me embedded in the lip. Somehow made it under that one but was beat and needed to swim in. Crying "My board, my board" in desperation. Got rescued by my friend who heard my pleas. I thought I was dead. Some other guy who was out retrieved my board for me, cuz I sure as heck couldn't find it as I was busy vomiting on the cobblestones. The good samaritan posted on the net, and also on a flyer attached to the post at the top of the trail "Last night the surfing was better than sex, and if you lost your board out there I've got it. I was looking for it the next day down by Mussel Shoals; turns out it washed up right in the cove. Still thankful for my friend who gave me a ride in when I had nothing in the tank; and the dude who was considerate enough to get my board back to me.
Worst one though; my 5th grade son caught in a rip, eyes like saucers, rapidly moving along the cliff out to sea. Me telling him "Grab on to my shoulders and we'll make it", then paddling like mad for what seemed like forever to get us in. Son says that was his scariest moment ever and looking into his freaked out eyes made me respect the ocean's hazards ever so much more. Didn't make me vomit but still had the most impact on me. The look in his eyes of sheer terror, I am grateful he will still go out with his old man after that! Mind you we are in Oregon now so surfing is not exactly "user friendly" with the 5 mil suits, booties, etc. And still butt cold. Pins and needles or ice cream headaches, anyone?
Besides the time I broke my board with my head and was gashed through my hood or the numerous times where, out of breath and facing yet another very large wave about to break on my head, I asked for some kind of divine intervention, there was this: 1975 OBSF, hadn't surfed for a couple of years, paddled out for my first time at Ocean Beach on a sparkling blue day with beautiful, clean, head high peaks without a soul in sight. Was wearing a borrowed short wetsuit and using a long board someone had abandoned in the apartment building where I lived. Paddled out and sat waiting for waves until my legs turned to stone in the cold water and fell on the first wave I caught. Started swimming in and it wasn't long before my muscles were crampng and my strength running out. I was stuck in that shorepound spot where everything is swirling and you can't seem to get anywhere and starting thinking about my friend sitting on a towel on the beach and how was she going to get home after I drowned because I didn't tell her where I had hidden the car key and how long would it be before she figured out something had happened. Then I yawned and remembered reading a book about how hypothermia victims get sleepy before the end and freaked out which gave a burst of "I don't want to die" energy and managed to make it to the shore. After 30 minutes of violent shivering I was able to function again and we packed up and left.
I had the shit scared out of me while getting caught inside at Dominical in CR on a rapidly building swell. Got held down bad and pushed into blackness. Came up seeing stars and took another one within seconds. However, OBSF reigns supreme. Two years ago I paddled out on a super clean winter day on a very low tide. From the lot things looked to be around nine foot plus, long period, hollow, and slamming hard. Essentially, I ignored the advice that @Purpeana was given. I only watched the water for about five minutes and suited up, neglecting to see what the sets were doing. I made it out fairly easily through a semi-channel and paddled out the back further than most. Literally as soon as I sat up and stopped moving a set started looming. I could immediately tell that even though I was way out, I was in a bad spot. The set was obviously far bigger than what I had witnessed from the lot; I'd say easy DOH. Heart pounding, trying to stay as calm as possible, etc., I started scratching and got within feet of where the initial impact zone was setting up. I thought I might be able to push up the face and duck through, but the thing reared up, and the lip dropped straight onto my back. Keep in mind, this was a low tide exploder, not a roller. My board immediately snapped clean apart under me from the impact. I took the scariest washing machine beat down I've ever had and came up alienated. I pulled the tail piece in, which was only a couple feet, and noticed another wall roaring towards me, with the nose of the board gunning for my face. I dove under, luckily avoiding the other piece. Luckily, the white water and pushed me inside quite a bit and the swim that followed only took about ten to fifteen minutes. Honestly, had I been in a place where the currents were more intense I don't know what would have happened. I got to the beach pretty rattled and ended up calling off of work for the afternoon. Once I calmed down, aside from being super pissed that my favorite board was gone, I found myself wallowing in the fact that the scare and loss would had been far more acceptable had I at least scored one wave that day. Because of the experience, last year I found myself shying away from beach days with sets going over 9-10'. I can't express how much I respect the talent and courage possessed by folks that regularly surf the spot at DOH to TOH. I've been out other places on 10' to 12' days and while certain situations can be pretty hair raising, nothing compares to that size at the beach. That being said, I'm feeling a bit skeptical about the coming swell. That size with the initial length of the interval is gonna make for some bombs; definitely not a smooth transition back into the fall and winter season following the summer doldrums.
Funny, boredom ensued following the paddle down memory way and I found that day in the archives. Oh, internet... http://stokereport.com/report/10600#comments
I had another less heavy but equally interesting event at OBSF.
It was a small day with good, hollow, shape. Towards the end of my session the waves started to break over a shallow bar, going as square as OB gets, kind of impossible to make though.
I drop in and end up going over the handlebars, pearling the nose. I end up under water, getting pinned to the sand, face first with my board pushing my entire body down, grinding into the sand. it felt like there where two or three fire hoses blasting the otherside of my board!
Shit reading this thread scares the shit out of me, reminding me of how truly frightening the ocean can be. As much as I wish I could join the double overhead OB club I am reluctant to paddle out when it gets bigger than 8 foot as , after 20 years I know my limits surfing the beach. There are 3 ocean related incidents that come to mind. The first is dring a Thanksgiving swell in the early 90's crystal clear long interval clean big swell. Made it out too easily paddling out at the ###### only to find that the real sets were about to break on my head. Actually scratched outside only without being sucked over the falls and made it outside. until that point I never had the experience of being outside and then wondering "sh*t, how in the F*ck did I get out and how and the hell am I going to make it in?" As seen in other posts the answer was a horrific beating to the inside followed by kissing the sand and the sober realization that I just dont have what it takes to surf solid sized OB. It was a frightening experience of course but also from a psychological perspective humbling as well. I had friends that I surfed with who felt comfortable in such conditions and I acknowledged that I couldnt keep up with them when it got big. It was like when you realized as a kid when you aspired to be a hoopster that you would never dunk let alone grab the rim! The realization that your physical limitations clashed with your aspirations and no matter how fit you became there was nothing you could do about it!
since then I have remained a committed OB surfer....but only at less than 1.5 x overhead
San Clemente State beach 1991. I dropped a big face and did not make it, got tossed around and held under for what seemed like a very long time. leash snapped. took another one to the head. panicked. gained big respect for the ocean that day. vomited salt water and ego.
i could mention a time at the canada end of linda mar but its just not heavy enough.
Good call, @brah....Yeh, in this thread Lindy and heavy in the same sentence are not simpatico. But, you know, if you like mentioned that time you stubbed your toe on a rock on the beach at the narth end, that would be okay.
seriously though linda mar is nothing compared to OB it is still the pacific ocean. ive seen it big and dangerous before. and in storms like the one that took out the boat docks it can be plenty heavy. id rather drown at ob though. more dignity in that.
I remember getting use to my 8' 6" gun and then surfing those 10 feet plus days. They are all heavy and I have to really want it but there is nothing like the power and speed of a solid winter swell. I can still remember specific waves were I think I was pushing my limits and loving it. Now past double overhead I take a pass. Late 90s I made the unfortunate decision to paddle out at ob with a building swell and not much skill or respect for the powers of the ocean. Made it out but bamm the swell came up real fast. I was like holy shit... There is no way i can take off on one of these. Got pummeled. Leash broke. Saw the virgin guadelupe, and thought I was going die.. But made it in body surfing double overhead whitewater. Basically the ocean just spat me back to shore. I kissed the beach. Now I know.
Heaviest beating was on the Chilliwack River in British Columbia. Held under in a Class 5 hole for a while. guiding a boat full of novices...spring flood. all bad.
Heaviest shit without water? Climbed 13 pitches on the Royal Arches in Yosemite Valley. 90 degree day...hit the top after dark...climbing partner bailed on me (total asshole) spent the night at the top of the Valley, no food, no water, no sleeping bag, completely out of energy. Woke up at dawn, refreshed, and scrambled down class 4 gulley. just in time before they sent out the search party.
Surf wise? ive had many near death experiences, most all have been in water. too many to say "that one was particularly worse". However, those two sets i saw on Tsunami day were pretty ridiculous. Must have been 15-20 foot wall of whitewater coming through the channel. Straight buggin'
Has anyone here ever been in a K-hole? if you have, you'd probably say, "that was as heavy as gets"
I looked forward to reading this thread and you all did not disappoint.
My only addition is that scared shitless is scared shitless and it really does not matter much where or how big after you arrive at scared shitless.
I have never been out at OB on a "respectable" day but I have been plenty scared in a variety of situations and no matter where you are or what you are doing when you face that outside monster (or metaphorical equivalent) and realize it's gonna get you I think it is exactly the same...
and for the record
gunpoint
