Jay Writes: This is in response to a recent e-mail asking how to pump a short board while angling down the wave. The writer asks, “I am trying to learn how get more speed to hit the lip becasue the wave keeps breaking before I reach the top. Is pumping as simple as pushing down on the front of the board? I need more speed. Help!”
This is a good question since there is no maneuver in surfing that is possible without speed (except maybe a wipeout). And pumping will give you all the speed you need. You especially need effective pumping when you are surfing small, mushy waves. These tips will help:
1. First thing is to get to your feet as quickly as possible and set your footing. Nothing is worse than watching the wave break on without you as you get your act together on the drop. Therefore, the second you feel the wave lifting you, jump to your feet and put your eyes on that point down the line you are aiming for. If the wave is small, aim your board down the line before getting to the bottom (If it’s bigger, you’ll have to get to the trough of the wave first and then make you turn down the line).
