At some point in your life, the ocean will give you a beating that might make you to question your commitment to surfing. Boards will be broken, reefs will be encountered, and egos will be dragged through the gutter. To keep you both physically and mentally prepared for these situations, we spoke to Hawaiian big-wave charger Kohl Christenson about surviving the wipeout of your life.
Prepare your mind and body. If your head isn’t right to take a bad wipeout, you aren’t going to maximize your potential. That being said, if you don’t feel physically ready to surf big waves, then your head will never be there. To do it well, it has to be a combination of being physically fit and mentally prepared. For me, cardio workouts are an extremely important part of my routine. I love to mix in swimming with some beach runs, and lately I’ve been including some plyometric workouts in my program. Being able to hold your breath well is obviously very important and I’ve found that the best way to improve in that area for me is free diving. Whether it’s diving for fish or just swimming around Waimea Bay in the summer, just keep doing it. If you’re ever in a bad place, you’ll be glad that at least you’re fit.