Intercourse With the Ocean

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Johnny Knapp writes: can’t remember the last time I was on a surfboard. There have been waves, but none of my boards have left the corner in which they lean. Spiders have even taken to weaving a web that utilizes their dormant position.

My friends admitted that they are starting to worry about my absence from surfing. Because for some time now all I go to the beach with is a pair of swim fins and a piece of wood.

It all started when I tried a handplane, as they’re called, that belonged to a friend ...

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madpie
1 year ago

This is kind of where I'm at, too. Probably 75% bodysurfing, 25% boardsurfing. Maybe it's just a function of getting older, but I'm not all that focused on trying to be a "good" boardsurfer anymore. George Greenough shreds on an inflatable mat. Mark Cunningham and Judith Sheridan shred with flippers. Those people have it figured out, as far as I'm concerned.

waveslave
1 year ago

Whatever tickles your fancy I guess.

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