“One more wave, and I’m going in,” I think to myself when I know I should be making tracks.
After that one, I think, “That last wave was a good one. Maybe just one more wave.”
After that one, I think, “Hmm, there’s still half an hour of tide left, maybe just one more wave.”
After that one I think, “That last one was a bit bigger, perhaps there’s a new pulse of swell. Maybe just one more wave.”









