Just One More Wave

1897

“One more wave, and I’m going in,” I think to myself when I know I should be making tracks.

After that one, I think, “That last wave was a good one. Maybe just one more wave.”

After that one, I think, “Hmm, there’s still half an hour of tide left, maybe just one more wave.”

After that one I think, “That last one was a bit bigger, perhaps there’s a new pulse of swell. Maybe just one more wave.”

3

drei
31 weeks ago

You should always decide to go in after you just finished a good ride, not when you're sitting in the line up. Otherwise, you may fall victim to the dreaded old Last Wave Curse. You will not catch a decent wave for thirty minutes. In desperation, you will finally paddle in and ride a crappy closeout to the beach. You will see the best set of the day roll through two minutes later.

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