Knowing when it's time to hang up the boards : - (

4779
Rant - Knowing when it's time to hang up the boards : - (

It has been a few years coming, and this body can take no more. Age, yes, somewhat a factor, but not so much as what life has dealt me with respect to medical conditions that have taken its toll since 2007. With back pain 24/7, and nothing that renders it tolerable anymore, even the Rx pills and 420 card, it has become so much of an effort even to put on, and take off a wetsuit.

The memories and reminders will be there for a life time, but what to do with all the equipment I have acquired: 5 wetsuits( all XL ), 4 pair of XCEL booties( size 10 ), 2 pair of 3mm gloves( large ), 1 hood( XL ), numerous bars of wax, leashes( six 10'ers ), 1 boogie board, 1 pair of Churchill Fins( ML 9 - 10.5 ) and those four 9'6" longboards . . . one of which will not be sold because of its increasing value, shaped "By Rich Harbour." Craigslist has been a disaster to even attempt to sell there anymore, what with all the porn spam, and just plain DICKS who respond 80% of the time knowing they're only trying to get something for nothing, and believing you'll fall for their con.

So, if anybody is interested in any of the equipment I have mentioned, with the exception of the boards because I'm pretty sure nobody wants to shell out over $700 for any one of them, I know, "+classified," but I've been there already and no takers, let me know and I'll open up my email contact.

In parting of doing something that has been an integral part of my life since 1962, I'll still be at the beach, enjoying it and taking photos, but not surfing anymore. It is with much sadness that I say, Keep The Stoke! I had been, but it has just been so difficult and painful, physically, and now emotionally that I make the decision to put an end to it.

Aloha and Mahalo

39

burro
35 weeks ago

Really sorry to hear that WG. We're all going to experience that day sometime. Thanks for sharing your day with us.

unfocused
35 weeks ago

Im sorry Uncle. Hope to see you on the beach

fishyfish
35 weeks ago

I just shed a single manly tear while reading that. I definitely won't take for granted the next wave I ride.

piss_shiver
35 weeks ago

dammit, sorry to hear that. I personally appreciate the sharing you did with respect to this topic. Everyone has an end to surfing, and it's something we all have to fess up to. To acknowledge that, took a lot of guts, and I appreciate your candor. We should all head to the 'Bo one day to see your surfing days off proper.

Greenandcold
35 weeks ago

mahalos uncle. Thank you for sharing that with us.

BarnSwarm
35 weeks ago

Thanks for all your posts and wisdom on here WG. Treat yourself to a trip to Costa Rica and enjoy some wetsuit free gliding as a send off if you can. Gracias and Mahalo.

Purpeana
35 weeks ago

Respect.

the beard
35 weeks ago

With all due respect. Thanks for sharing.

-The Beard

tail block
35 weeks ago

Always hard to lose a soldier fom the old school

waggy
35 weeks ago

Thank you for sharing, it's so easy to take what we have for granted and to bitch about the little things, when we're so damned lucky to be in the picture in the first place. Even if it's not through riding waves, I hope the ocean will always bring you peace, freedom, and happiness. You'll always be a surfer. Take care of yourself, stay stoked, and stay with us. Mahalo.

greacen
35 weeks ago

Ah bummah. @WG, I thought I'd run into you up on the beach today. Much respect and thanks for sharing.

offshores
35 weeks ago

Really sorry to hear that. Hope to run into you at the beach someday. And I'm hoping that you'll have some pain free days and that you get to enjoy some warm ocean water.

Tenderloin tom
35 weeks ago

To a true waterman = wave glider for president! Thanks for all your knowledge you shed on us grommets,please keep in touch with us stoke reporters. Share some pics with us ,take care

TT

JLW
35 weeks ago

Wave Glider, I'm only 23 (going to be 24 in a few weeks) but for whatever reason, this post really hit me hard. It's scary to think that we all will have to put the board down at one point or another. But are you sure that it's too late?

I was talking to an older regular who surfs at Ocean Beach in front of Java Beach and the N line pretty much daily. He's in his mid 50s I'd guess. Simple tasks like going to the beach to check the surf are painful for him; he can't walk very well. He suffered a crippling injury in '05 or '06 but still surfs on a SUP in spite of the pain. WG, have you considered other crafts/methods of riding waves? How about bodysurfing? Or SUPing? I don't know, just some food for thought. Either way, I'm sorry.

Yahguy
35 weeks ago

Sorry to hear the bad news WG, I'm sure you will find something to get stoked about on land.

thinmanspits
35 weeks ago

Hard to imagine life before SR - WaveGlider, may you continue to find and spread 'stoke'...mahalo!

Capra
35 weeks ago

Most touching post I've ever seen on SR and I don't mean that with any sarcasm, whatsoever. Congratulations on such a great run and thank you for sharing. Ya never know, maybe once in a while the urge will overcome the pain and you'll hit it again. Keep the faith & the stoke!

fatnewt
35 weeks ago

Sorry to hear that WG.

tehdely
35 weeks ago

Premium respect. It's always been a privilege getting to hear your knowledge. I hope you have much more to share over the years, even if you're not getting in the water any more.

Mahalo

gromsdad
35 weeks ago

My first memory of surfing is being swept thru the Ventura pier in 1983. Surfed almost every swell for 20 years in the Jalama/SB/Ventura area. Almost failed college in lieu of going on extended camping trips with my bud from Cambria. Trips to Sand Dollar/Willow were frequent. Took out an "emergency" student loan in 1988 to purchase a 1972 VW bus and blew it up in La Ticla. Sold the van for a ride to the border but the ride also broke down so we made it home with our thumbs. Ahh, memories, I suppose you have a lot of them. Compile them for us; I would love to hear stories! I know a guy who does photos now cuz he can't surf anymore, you are not alone that's for sure. Chronic surfing sure can contribute to chronic pain.

Then I had a whiplash injury in 2003. I have had 4 surgeries(two neck fusions; one rotator cuff, one for a busted ankle). I spent 5 years out of the water. Now from 2009-present I have dipped my toes back in. I have switched to kneeboarding because the rotator cuff surgery doc told me to limit ######ing motions in the future; so now I use swim fins to help propel me.

I can hardly get out of a wetsuit at the end of a session; and I now surf 20x per year rather than 100. And I am in Oregon now; 4 hrs from the beach, so I really got to want it to get it. And when I do it hurts. But it is worth it even to keep my toes wet.

Maybe you could still enjoy limited surf action if the wetsuit step could be skipped? Trip to Costa Rica/Bali/??
I relate to your issues for sure.

Squid Lips
35 weeks ago

WG- Mahalo for all your stoke, stories, and insight...

Many a men would have hung up their booties before this moment, and that is something for which you can be proud.

I hope to see you on the beach and share a beer. I'm going to make more of an effort to approach guys walking the beach, taking pictures, and mindsufing the waves.

SFOBKnewb
35 weeks ago

Thank you for sharing WG.

mlanson
35 weeks ago

Like JLW mentioned, Bodyboard! I have a friend who was hit by a car and struggles a lot physically, but he rides waves almost everyday with his bodyboard.

Cazart
35 weeks ago

I've been thinking about this post all weekend.
#1 - Can we get a brotha a custom-made wetsuit? Front- or side-zip?
#2 - People who are into mat surfing are reeeeeally into mat surfing. Link: http://www.surfmats.com/

Mick Shrimpton
34 weeks ago

Wave Glider, I've enjoyed your posts and pics most on stoke report. I love Bo, my home break and would live to join you for one more surf if you're up for it. I'm also in the market for a noserider for those fun waist- days in the patch. Thanks again for sharing.

congested
33 weeks ago

Cheer up Wavegilder! You are probably just a little down. The sun will come out and your bones will feel better. I don't know you but I am recovering from an injury and I know how bad one's body can hurt. Hang in there Brother!

Login or register to post comments