Unfocused: my most unStoked moment for sure was when this kook yelled at me for not telling him to go after i backed off the peak. the peak was empty. i didn't even know he was there. and then he appears. not even back in the line up. way out of position. He just starts barkin' about how, if im going to paddle to the peak, i better go. and if not, i better tell him too! on any given day, I'd be yellin' for someone to go. grab that wave! but this fucker was way out of line.
I flipped my shit! i was just a pup, and i lost it! paddled right over to him, splashed water at him. chased him around as he paddled away. told him he wasn't from around here( and he wasnt) and basically chased him outta the water. he was begging me for to stop and leave him alone. i made this punk feel like such a coward. and you know what? i felt terrible. it haunted me for weeks. i never wanted to make anyone feel like a coward. he started it. and i finished it. but i felt more bad for him. it's hard to explain. surfing is spiritual. so much inner peace. and then this punk calls me out?? fuck ,man. i was so worked up, i messaged Steve Pezman at the Journal. i needed someone to talk to. the few times i seen that blow-in since, he was so nice and kind. it's been about ten years, and of course, he ain't around anymore. most unStoked i ever been. oh yeah, and the time it was super crowded and i told Chris Isaac i hoped him and everybody would go home. haven't seen him around either.
Most unStoked moment? we've all had one. let's hear it
Rant - Most unStoked moment? we've all had one. let's hear it
Squid Lips
35 weeks ago
35 weeks ago
Nicely done, ufo. Here's your wafer and a sip of grape juice... now go out there and be holy.
bluefish
35 weeks ago
35 weeks ago
Was the guy riding a red McTavish? Because if so I wouldn't beat yourself up about it. A guy with that board and description did that same thing to me. I called him out on it and he shut up quick. Well actually he tried to drop in on me on the next wave and ate it as I rode past him. I wouldn't feel bad about someone else starting nonsense. My rule is that I keep to myself, use common sense and I stay out of other peoples ways. I apologize when I mess up and I call people out if they start anything with me. Sounds like you did the same, but maybe went overboard a bit. No need to publicly repent.












