Denied on my first attempt at north SPOT_X. Reset, got some inspiration from Josh, made it out pretty easily at SPOT_X proper. Got nuked on a late takeoff and after multiple summersaults I came up seeing stars. I moped about for another half an hour without any great choices. But my bomb eventually came. Steep takeoff, foot fumbling, feet got set, absorbed a huge bump, almost lost it, dropped my butt really low, realized for the first time that I was on a legitimate bomb going very fast down the line, rode it all the way to the next peak an got delivered to the soupy, post-set foam madness. There I dwelt for 5 minutes getting squirreled about, breathing clear air every now an then. Decided against fighting my way back out. Bear hugged board, and took a head high foam wall right up my ass. Pointed at all 8 octants of the cartesian coordinate system underwater before bubbling to the surface. Long right + drift put me at the south SPOT_X parking lot. Successful beach landing amid the rocks. Successful bay bridge crossing post terrorist scare. Walk into work barefoot, three separate people say, "You are positively glowing..." Yes. Yes I am. Thank you OB. You are my crazy eyed, mullet having, meth head husband who beats me senseless. I may occasionally call the cops on you but I'll never press charges or leave you b/c deep down inside, I think I like it.








