"Old guy sage advice today at OB"
SO, I'm standing there checking the surf this AM for a pre work session. The conditions were superb and the surf was nothing special. Internally, I was on the fence and debating, surf OR work and get something accomplished.
I start friendly chit chat with an older guy next to me. I mentioned that I had a short window before work but that I might pass because of the wave quality.
He turns, looks me in the eye and says,
"You're going to surf. Go Surf. You have a window of time. The Sun is out, yeah it looks like shit. But you're going to surf."
Me? Pointing to his side rib cage area, tomorrow, I go into surgery. I get cut open and I'm going to miss the next 6 months +. When you're my age and you have a window, you surf. You keep the stoke, you keep the arms moving and the muscle memory of surfing.
I'm older than you, but *all* the guys I used to surf with, none of them knew that the last wave they caught was going to be their last wave. (holy sheet!)
You do what ever you can to keep the up the stoke. If you start to get picky, start to make excuses: it looks like shit, its not good enough, I only surf when its good, I have to much work to do, I only have 45 mins. Then all of a sudden when it does get good, you surf like shit.
If you have a window, you go surf. Its a fast slippery slope if you start making lame excuses. Today, this morning, you will go surf.
All of my friends who used to surf *wish* they had the choice that YOU have right now. Don't think about it. Just do your self a favor and get in the water.
There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf."
Then he walked away.
Damn- that was good advice. That might be sage advice - I'll always remember that.
The surf looked like shit today. But, I went, it was like a pack of guys calling me in on a big close out.
I suited up and went out, I caught a ton of 'shitty' waves and had the *best effing* time.
Thought I'd pass this conversation along to the community, enjoy the Day.