"Old guy sage advice today at OB"

Wow, so awesome. Ever since I started surfing, I've pretty much surfed almost every day, no matter what. I've gone out in such shitastic conditions that I literally had to dodge kiters in the water. I've gone out in such chaotic big conditions that a news chopper was circling me b/c they thought I was in distress b/c nobody in their right mind would be surfing that day. They even called the coasties. I kept trying to look undistressed, but I guess it didn't work.

Anyway, as I've watched surf buddies begin to make excuses when the conditions were terrible and as I've started to do the same, I try to keep telling myself, "this is better than the gym, this is better than work, this is better than sleep. Just go get some exercise." It gets harder on some days to keep telling myself that, but your ole crusty buddy's comment is a helpful shot in the ass. Thanks for sharing.

Yea, thanks for sharing, great story. I tried to surf basically every day in fall/winter regardless of conditions but have been getting lazy these last few weeks...this is gonna help me get more motivated to get out there, cheers.

Same can be said for music- There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a musician who used to play music.

- or a gigolo. that's real sad.

wow. made me feel guilty as hell. I've been using exactly those excuses for about six months. jeez. plus it sounds like one of those movies where they send a crusty old guy as an angel so you don't have a heart-attack when yr 52 (echem: I'm 55).

I'm not as adamant as sticker about the every day thing, but yeah....day 3 is a must go sitch no matter what :) Good post.

I had been making those excuses for roughly the last five years and frankly doing a lot of reading this site and bodysurfing in lieu of actually paddling out anywhere. But in the last month I've finally just adopted that "If you have a window, and if you can get to the beach, go surf" POV. I'm happier and healthier for it, even though I just got a parking ticket today at SFOB.

Good one. This old guy didn't talk to me today, but I still forced myself out there. Age does = wisdom..... sometimes.

Cheers.

The Beard

Aye aye aye. Gonna be crowded in the lineup for a few days after everyone reads this. :-P

######-

With the impending doom of summer/fog botch, speaking for myself this little story goes a long way. Note to self: Surf when you can.

Thanks again- The Beard

@broughton, I don't think encouragement to surf from the Yoda on the dunes is going to crowd anything. It's nice to be reminded how lucky we are to be able to enjoy the surf. But at the end of the day it's still a fine line between "I'm going out to just get wet and exercise" and "it's really too crappy to make a go of it". Surfing motivation is itself like water, it seeks its own level. When you haven't been out for awhile and can't stand it any longer, you'll go out. You should surf when you feel like it.

yes!

What's wrong with a good old-fashioned 'maintenance' session? Got caught on the treadmill twice today. Lost about a good block (sheesh!) getting back outside. Bitchin. The arms, the back, the will are all stronger for it. Brain, not so sure.

#thumbnail:

oh shit burro...how apropos! :)

√ Passing thoughts every time I go out to surf.

Really deep thoughts Pach e o! Thanks for cool story! Do you know what way he went,was it into the sunset (not the neighborhood)

That was the rant of the year

Thanks again

Old tom has been taking a drubbing lately...but that sunset quip deserves a +1.

Nice post.
I have been struggling to not become an ex-surfer for 30 years! I keep going back, and always wondering if it will be the last time...

My lamest and biggest excuse is lack of self motivation and desire to go it alone. This helps!

word brother

...on another note, spring/summer tends to be my "escape" time in which i indulge in the likes of lots of alcohol and illicit drugs. can i use this as my excuse for 'not surfing'?

Loved this, thanks for sharing. I will remind myself and others of this when I get complacent. My current situation has me far north of the Bay Area and might get farther before returning. I have to say many-a-morning this forum gives me stoke in some form. Thanks

I was surfing on the EastSide SC yesterday and there were some old guys that were inspiring in a different way- as in just keep doing it-keep surfing as long as you can. They were asking each other about kidney stones and bad backs but they were still out there smiling and getting stoked.

Thanks again sharkturd ,I almost left this website cuz all the haight! But now I'm more opened and more positive

A+ Thanks for this one.

Pach e o has 33 thumbs up and counting= stoked

I went right out and surfed after reading this. Thanks for the good vibes.

I'm fairly new to the sport (grew up in the part of the country far away from water that wasn't a lake or river) and that just motivated me, even in the midst of "yay this is something I get to do all the time now, not just on vacation once a year." I hope to run into this wise old dude at some point out on OB. Thanks for the share :D

thank you both