"Old guy sage advice today at OB"

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Rant - "Old guy sage advice today at OB"

"Old guy sage advice today at OB"

SO, I'm standing there checking the surf this AM for a pre work session. The conditions were superb and the surf was nothing special. Internally, I was on the fence and debating, surf OR work and get something accomplished.

I start friendly chit chat with an older guy next to me. I mentioned that I had a short window before work but that I might pass because of the wave quality.

He turns, looks me in the eye and says,

"You're going to surf. Go Surf. You have a window of time. The Sun is out, yeah it looks like shit. But you're going to surf."

Me? Pointing to his side rib cage area, tomorrow, I go into surgery. I get cut open and I'm going to miss the next 6 months +. When you're my age and you have a window, you surf. You keep the stoke, you keep the arms moving and the muscle memory of surfing.

I'm older than you, but *all* the guys I used to surf with, none of them knew that the last wave they caught was going to be their last wave. (holy sheet!)

You do what ever you can to keep the up the stoke. If you start to get picky, start to make excuses: it looks like shit, its not good enough, I only surf when its good, I have to much work to do, I only have 45 mins. Then all of a sudden when it does get good, you surf like shit.

If you have a window, you go surf. Its a fast slippery slope if you start making lame excuses. Today, this morning, you will go surf.

All of my friends who used to surf *wish* they had the choice that YOU have right now. Don't think about it. Just do your self a favor and get in the water.

There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf."

Then he walked away.

Damn- that was good advice. That might be sage advice - I'll always remember that.

The surf looked like shit today. But, I went, it was like a pack of guys calling me in on a big close out.

I suited up and went out, I caught a ton of 'shitty' waves and had the *best effing* time.

Thought I'd pass this conversation along to the community, enjoy the Day.

37
sticker
2 years ago

Wow, so awesome. Ever since I started surfing, I've pretty much surfed almost every day, no matter what. I've gone out in such shitastic conditions that I literally had to dodge kiters in the water. I've gone out in such chaotic big conditions that a news chopper was circling me b/c they thought I was in distress b/c nobody in their right mind would be surfing that day. They even called the coasties. I kept trying to look undistressed, but I guess it didn't work.

Anyway, as I've watched surf buddies begin to make excuses when the conditions were terrible and as I've started to do the same, I try to keep telling myself, "this is better than the gym, this is better than work, this is better than sleep. Just go get some exercise." It gets harder on some days to keep telling myself that, but your ole crusty buddy's comment is a helpful shot in the ass. Thanks for sharing.

eric
2 years ago

Yea, thanks for sharing, great story. I tried to surf basically every day in fall/winter regardless of conditions but have been getting lazy these last few weeks...this is gonna help me get more motivated to get out there, cheers.

Squid Lips
2 years ago

Same can be said for music- There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a musician who used to play music.

hasbro
2 years ago

- or a gigolo. that's real sad.

cloud
2 years ago

wow. made me feel guilty as hell. I've been using exactly those excuses for about six months. jeez. plus it sounds like one of those movies where they send a crusty old guy as an angel so you don't have a heart-attack when yr 52 (echem: I'm 55).

piss_shiver
2 years ago

I'm not as adamant as sticker about the every day thing, but yeah....day 3 is a must go sitch no matter what :) Good post.

madpie
2 years ago

I had been making those excuses for roughly the last five years and frankly doing a lot of reading this site and bodysurfing in lieu of actually paddling out anywhere. But in the last month I've finally just adopted that "If you have a window, and if you can get to the beach, go surf" POV. I'm happier and healthier for it, even though I just got a parking ticket today at SFOB.

the beard
2 years ago

Good one. This old guy didn't talk to me today, but I still forced myself out there. Age does = wisdom..... sometimes.

Cheers.

The Beard

pacheco
2 years ago

hi All, I'm the author here, chiming In. This guy was the real deal, an old dude who still surfs the Beach. (think about that(.)

We have such a short time here (big picture) ... I'm thrilled to know that his words have had such meaning to you all. Its really important not to take anything for granted.

I think that he'd be proud, (yet modest) in realizing that his 'meaningless' rant on top of the sand dune had a true *meaningful* impact upon and group of strangers in a positive Living-the-LiFe kind of way.

I'm stoked that I passed this on.

broughten
2 years ago

Aye aye aye. Gonna be crowded in the lineup for a few days after everyone reads this. :-P

the beard
2 years ago

######-

With the impending doom of summer/fog botch, speaking for myself this little story goes a long way. Note to self: Surf when you can.

Thanks again- The Beard

sharkturd
2 years ago

@broughton, I don't think encouragement to surf from the Yoda on the dunes is going to crowd anything. It's nice to be reminded how lucky we are to be able to enjoy the surf. But at the end of the day it's still a fine line between "I'm going out to just get wet and exercise" and "it's really too crappy to make a go of it". Surfing motivation is itself like water, it seeks its own level. When you haven't been out for awhile and can't stand it any longer, you'll go out. You should surf when you feel like it.

cloud
2 years ago

yes!

paddleout
2 years ago

What's wrong with a good old-fashioned 'maintenance' session? Got caught on the treadmill twice today. Lost about a good block (sheesh!) getting back outside. Bitchin. The arms, the back, the will are all stronger for it. Brain, not so sure.

burro
2 years ago

#thumbnail:

piss_shiver
2 years ago

oh shit burro...how apropos! :)

Wave Glider
2 years ago

√ Passing thoughts every time I go out to surf.

Tenderloin tom
2 years ago

Really deep thoughts Pach e o! Thanks for cool story! Do you know what way he went,was it into the sunset (not the neighborhood)

That was the rant of the year

Thanks again

sharkturd
2 years ago

Old tom has been taking a drubbing lately...but that sunset quip deserves a +1.

Squeaky
2 years ago

Nice post.
I have been struggling to not become an ex-surfer for 30 years! I keep going back, and always wondering if it will be the last time...

SRFSK8SNW
2 years ago

My lamest and biggest excuse is lack of self motivation and desire to go it alone. This helps!

unfocused
2 years ago

word brother

unfocused
2 years ago

...on another note, spring/summer tends to be my "escape" time in which i indulge in the likes of lots of alcohol and illicit drugs. can i use this as my excuse for 'not surfing'?

grnplatebrd
2 years ago

Loved this, thanks for sharing. I will remind myself and others of this when I get complacent. My current situation has me far north of the Bay Area and might get farther before returning. I have to say many-a-morning this forum gives me stoke in some form. Thanks

Quadrafino
2 years ago

I was surfing on the EastSide SC yesterday and there were some old guys that were inspiring in a different way- as in just keep doing it-keep surfing as long as you can. They were asking each other about kidney stones and bad backs but they were still out there smiling and getting stoked.

Tenderloin tom
2 years ago

Thanks again sharkturd ,I almost left this website cuz all the haight! But now I'm more opened and more positive

greacen
2 years ago

A+ Thanks for this one.

Tenderloin tom
2 years ago

Pach e o has 33 thumbs up and counting= stoked

Felix D
2 years ago

I went right out and surfed after reading this. Thanks for the good vibes.

tsmuse
2 years ago

I'm fairly new to the sport (grew up in the part of the country far away from water that wasn't a lake or river) and that just motivated me, even in the midst of "yay this is something I get to do all the time now, not just on vacation once a year." I hope to run into this wise old dude at some point out on OB. Thanks for the share :D

Flyingfish
2 years ago

thank you both

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