THE POWER OF LOCALISM

Localism Question: If someone is born on Lake Michigan.... and then moves to So Cal when they are 5....and then moves to San Francisco at age 25..... and has lived in San Francisco for 21 years..... and has been surfing for 35 years.....

then....

Where are they a local?

easy.Where did they go to High School?

KoK your a local... I was born here in SF and I say so!

Assume they hoped a tramp streamer at age 14, circled the world for 5 years and missed graduation.

if i buy 98% of the island of lanai does that make me a local hawaiian?

I think you get to be local in SF and your SoCal spot. I also think you can only be local in any spot after surfing regularly for 7 years.

Avenue Coalition says 10 years, if I remember correctly.
Half way there!

I think you're local whenever you're at the particular spot...and when you leave, your locality goes with you.

That's deep, 'turd.

10 years in SF in October, 10 years surfing the Beach next July. Already wondering whether my "SF Local" bumper sticker will go on my board or on the back of my car but have decided I'll sew the patch to my backpack. Wondering if I'll receive add'l amenities for having fathered two kids in the City.

Thanks frisky...I know...sorta like loacalism.

Since the kids were born *before* your 10 year mark, will they be considered locals having been born here, but not fathered by an official local at the time of their birth?

Just don't get a"born and raised in frisco " sticker,sticker!

How about Proximity to the spot. I might not have 10 years yet, but I live one block from a popular OB spot. By that measure I am more local there than almost anyone. I walk home and get in the shower wearing my wetsuit. That's local. You can't beat that.

Mansion,make sure you get the sand off your gear before the shower! I clogged the drains with sand in the tenderloin pretty bad and flooded out the basement awhile back,the black sand is really heavy stuff

Jeez, TT, that was a real knuckleheaded maneuver...as an adult you did that? Asked with all due respect, of course.

I always wondered about that TT, considering how much sand has gone down the drain already. Thanks for the heads up.

Turd, no I was 19 or 20 didn't give 2 turds about the apartment! Had no hose or yard,had to take the muni out of the TL to da beach with board in hand and a skecthy duffle bag for my clothes,tough times,the sand from the booties did the pipes in,no more knuckle head moves for me

@KOK: you are local no where now go back to the valley tranny. Is "the valley" a metaphoric valley or is there some valley where all non-local kooks actually come from? I seem to hear "go back to the valley" to often. I was surfing the Lane in January and a long boarder dropped in on Flee over at the Slot. It did not look like Flee was going to make the section but even though Flee seems to have a lot of problem in and out of the water one thing he has no problems doing is making section so of course he makes it and the long board almost drills him. Flee starts yelling at the long boarder and ends his rant with "go back to the valley," I assume he means around San Jose.

I was surfing the Lane last winter and one of those spaztic burn out meth heads told me to "go back to Orange County". So I guess that's the worst place to be from. I'm not sure why he associated me with the OC, but then again he probably didn't graduate high school.

@mlanson. proximity doesnt count to your hardcore local. when i lived in venice a guy told me at the breakwater that he was going to stab me because i wasnt local. i said "i live a block from here." he said "but i grew up here" he of course needed an attitude adjustment.

Little did I know how awesome the Beach really is cause you can get more black sand than the fatman in a couple sec's out front...

...only to find out the sand is Canadian!

Who regulates the sand around here?

@yahguy, the original and ultimate "valley" is the San Fernando Valley. "The Valley"...the source metaphor for all other valleys. BTW, a "valley kooK" is so much worse than even your garden variety kook and should be avoided at all costs...just sayin.

I live on a hill but if you knew me you would know that I'm just overcompensating for my "valley kookness."

I think shark turd's got it. Wherever you surf regularly your basically a local. When you move to, and surf a new spot regularly, you become a local there over time; how long is that?? Who cares. Doesn't matter if you do or don't know the crew that's surfed there the longest, they still can be kooks depending on there attitude.

And you can go back to an old spot and still be given respect in the pack, all depend on attitude of you and the locals there.

Anyone remember when WISE was on ###### St?? Wurd!

When I surfed SoCal, some of the guys there saw my stinkbug survival stance and knew I was from the land of steep drops and flabby shoulders, and surf only in survival mode. My style is local I guess. And, I too probably have a sand problem, along with all the sewer babies I've fathered.

I am a local. I know I am.

I do best to not be a local anywhere. I just go surfing.

Oh, and this is what always comes to mind when I encounter locals.

http://youtu.be/768h3Tz4Qik

All kidding aside, surfing is as spiritual as I get, and as grateful as i get to be alive. I get so much positivity from it, and see so much joy in others surfing, the whole subject of localism just baffles me. It's like we're not even talking about the same thing when we talk about surfing.

And I never actually get any of this so called localism either. I just stay out of people's way. One guy on here said it best, surf low on the peak and you can surf anywhere in the world.

Anyone seen/heard unfocused ??? He usually has something good to say

Actually, @sleepy, I meant my first comment in the strict and literal sense, i.e. with every step or paddle stroke we take we are at a new locale and hence become local to that spot. It was meant merely to saterize and have some fun with my take on the absurdity of the notion of localism. That's all, but your interp is a valid one. Stay stoked, and remember, we're always local:)

Ave coalition = transplants

Sharkturd didn't graduate :)

You know you are a local when your EGO grows beyond the size of your head and you can no longer take a steep drop without pearling or when you feel entitled enough to tell others how to, when to and where to surf. Here is to never being local or feeling entitled anywhere.....

I think locals need their own olympics.

oh, btw....

Born and raised planet earth! Go back to your own galaxy a-hole!

Not born here but started riding the waves of OB. Work with people that were born here; they remind me I'll always be a Californian but not a city Native

Go back to Florida wave craver, :)Just kidding

boonohm, I learned that as a non-native Californian there are two ways to get your California citizenship. Either marry a native or get plastic surgery. I got mine!

As a 5th generation Californian and life long surfer, I don't we should even be having the discussion of what constitutes a local. We should be sharing the ocean with everyone. Teaching people how the lineup works, and respect in the water. There are enough waves for everyone. Why would you ever want to hide something that makes everyone so happy. If everyone had a little mother ocean and surfing in their lives the world would be a better place.

Thanks

Bad Vibe Bob was here for twenty years then he left. If you try to capitalize on a spot and you are not born and raised it should be considered a crime, ie (Ocean Beach Surf.) If you manage to make friends with the locals and surf with them on the regular then i guess you managed to do things the right way the first time. Localism is dying but we are going to hold it down until the last man is standing. The Channel Islands stunt last weekend was atrocious. San Franpsycho ?? Andy gets a pass, Routzen doesn't. Sweetness you are walking a thin line. The SunBum thing under the bridge was a circus side show and split that group in half because it was done the wrong way. Powerlines is core to the heart and they seek others that are the same. Any questions?

Yes, how did I terk yer jeeerb?

Chris Wilson's ancestor's also inhabited this land before the Native Americans....BS! bro! No one is a local when it comes down to it accept the people of the islands. Our ancestors wiped out the locals long ago. Localism is too close to racism for me. They are one in the same.....hate....and fear, that there is a lack of resources. I will surf anywhere I want to and do it respectfully.

The thing I don't about LOCLs, is are they having fun being complete douchebags? They sure bring down the vibe in the rest of the lineup. And in a place like Santa Cruz, they don't even hold down the crowds. So what the hell is the point? Having said that, a little respect goes a long way, and folks who don't understand that need to get the message. But that can be done without tweaker clenchjaw bullshit.

@ Chris wilson- i guess i kind of have a question; by capitalize, do you literally mean "economically" ? As in, make money? Or, just more of "claiming" kind of thing? And I open the question out of respect, not confrontation.
Which, leads me into my other question, what about the Mav's guys? Most of the people that surf that spot are not born and raised in HMB...rather, Santa Cruz, SF, Hawaii, South Africa...etc. Are they committing crimes? I only ask, because "capitalizing" was sort of a confusing statement to me.
I was born in the East Bay, used to cut class and surf OB, and lived in the city before i was 21. And i have never been someone who "claimed to be SF native".
Just an honest, Stoked bro who has managed to make friends with a great many folks at our local sacred spots. Like i said, just opening the discussion out of respect, i appreciate your feedback. And btw, i think Powerlines is a great organization that has made a great deal of incredible films. Cheers to you guys

And when speaking of crimes, as someone who's spent time locked-up....i believe more laws, means less freedom. And a Nazi society, is a place i fear more than death itself.

i am not talking about hating or the fear of a takeover. im more into the culture and customs aspect of it all.
lo·cal·ism (l k -l z m). n. 1. a. A local linguistic feature. b. A local custom or peculiarity. 2. Devotion to local interests and customs.

Chris Wilson is a neanderthal. An ignorant ape who deserves the obesity and ignorance he exists with. Your birthplace entitles you to nothing except citizenship rights as granted by the country you were born in and that has absolutely nothing to do with surfing.

Latarian, you're good at being bad, and like it I assume.

Locals only? End of story.

@ chris wilson- fair enough, that's cool. I get down with that. culture is what makes us unique in a society. thanks for the response

@unfocused i think im talking about the making money part. i had a meeting with that guy of Ocean Beach Surf and he made a confession that when he looked into buying url's he couldn't believe how wide open it was. "It was almost like a land grab." he said. And i was like dude, you ain't even from here. how can you just go and make the claim and organize 9000 followers on facebook when you have zero authority on doing so. I too am open for discussion on this topic. I struggle with why people think i am so negative on this topic. i like to think my statements help people understand our surf culture from an inside perspective. and yes i am a hypocrite because i am going to make a film of OB and sell it too before its too late.

@ chris - that's awesome. there should be a movie about OB. It is a sacred spot and it will always be forbidden to those who are faint at heart. It's cold, it's rough, and most who try, don't last long anyways. And those who surf it, know just how special a place it is. Even after a movie, most will say, "those people are hard to the core" . And we are. Right on, man. Can't wait to see it

@TenderTom...Of course by now I would be considered an outsider there, then I would have to come back here and be a newcomer with zero senority, it's not too hard to imagine ending up as a non local anywhere on the planet. :)

Powerlines is CORE to the HEART dude! Arrrrgggghhhhh. It's such a shame when testostorializm gets mixed up with riding waves. Although not born here I have surfed this beach for 29 years and have been cussed at as a non local by guys who literally were in diapers and had their mothers tit in their mouth when I was regularly surfing at Ocean Beach. It's all such a joke.

(Hey, now that I think about it, SF being what it is, there are probably lot's of adults who just recently were in diapers with a tit in their mouth. May have to think of another example.)

@ wavecraver- I recently had "diaper rash" . a terrible, terrible thing it was

I did not read the whole thread.

A quote from the article: "Have you ever faced a brutal reality of localism? Getting vibed, yelled at, or kicked out of the water for no reason ruins your day, doesn’t it?" I have witness a lot of un necessary bulling on other surfers in the water and in parking lots. Most of them because their bored and protecting surf spots or drugs related and gangs who are also surfers. Just be aware of your surroundings at all times in the water and in parking lots. Especially those who are scanning at you from their vehicles, incognito way. Not every locals are like that, really. But surely there are really really some dumb ones and wanna be.

Wave craver for president

Hi Tom !

KooKreport

Call me Florida tom

Hows your new wet suit ?

chris wilson...aside from the bigger issue of localism in surfing, your mention below is something that does interest me.

"i like to think my statements help people understand our surf culture from an inside perspective."

Now before I go any further, I am do not mean to attack you or any other locals here. But as a surfer in San Francisco, a lot of the locally-produced surf media, etc just couldn't be further from my perspective of surfing. Its art and thus in the eye of the beholder. Along similar lines, your perspective of surf culture is naturally going to be different from mine. I'm completely fine with that. Yet at the same time, when I talk to surfers from elsewhere, or even surfers like me who have lived elsewhere and now surf here, a common question is "why do San Francisco surfers want to be in a gang?" I've heard variations on that question from several friends since I have lived here. I don't get that impression in the water, because there are so few of us out there. But it comes through outside the water. So what say you? Do you think that description is correct? Or even fair? I am legitimately interested in your perspective.

@ Florida Tom- it's toasty. Never knew i could fit into a small. that's what she said :)

There's Marklar :) how are you buddy?

thumbs up Unfocused.Hope you got some surf today.

@ChrisWilson, Apologies for mocking you, it's bad form, I just do not share your desire to hang wit' da boys and feel the power. I do like some of your video work though, it's like Diane Arbus goes to the beach. Art.

And heeeeeere we go again.

This honestly isn't that hard. Seriously, it's not, right? If you don't want to be labeled as members of “KookReport”, you'll acknowledge that. Localism, whether you like it or not, whether it's fair or unfair, EXISTS. It's how you DEAL with it that matters.

I've been surfing since I was 10, and if I can say something factual without any arrogance intended, I'm pretty good at it. I wasn’t born in SF, but I’ve lived here since 1990. There are 2 not-so-secret pointbreaks that I know very well, and given the opportunity to surf those waves freely, I think it's fair to say I surf them better than the majority of guys out in those line ups on a regular basis. So, does that mean I get to sit at the top of these particular pointbreaks and catch every/any wave I want? OF COURSE NOT.

It just doesn't work that way. From a greed standpoint, I wish it did. But lineups are not a meritocracy. They are also not always based solely on seniority. And sometimes the “rules” change from spot to spot, country to county. But if you are a knowledgeable surfer and PAY ATTENTION, you really should be able to surf almost anywhere. And if you’re an astute observer, you should be able to figure out early in your FIRST session at a spot who is really in charge and who isn’t.

When it comes to localism, you have to ask yourself what’s important: do you want to make a statement and try to change things, or do you want to catch more waves? You don’t have to like the “locals” as people, but you don’t have to invite them to dinner either, you know? You just have to get along with them for those 1-3 hours a day you want to go surfing. The sooner you accept things for what they are and perhaps eat a little pride along the way, the sooner you’ll be accepted and have less confrontations, and then CATCH MORE WAVES.

You may not agree with Chris Wilson’s approach, but he makes some valid points. I’ve applied those pointers in the above paragraphs my whole life, and for the most part I’ve been able to avoid confrontation. I’ve also gradually moved up the food chain in the SF lineups as well. Am I at the top? By no means am I at the top. But at least I RECOGNIZE that. Sometimes I have to be humble and give waves to guys far less talented than I, and sometimes I just have to look the other way when a “local” burns me. But you know what? I get more waves every year, and I go home to my wife and kids every night without confrontation. You can’t ask for much more than that.

This is such a strange thread. First of all the local Indians, miwok, did not carry guns, but were nomadic and experts at basket making. Think of grooving with the marine layers, moving around the bay at will. No muni. Just all the time in the day and your two legs, your hot wives carrying all your crap on their heads. They probably never went to the sf coast during the summer and of course had no interest in surfing. Second, the real news is that the friendliest place I know of is usually a line up somewhere along the sf coast. I have surfed here over 15 years and have met just a few jerks. Most the time I end up in a conversation like I knew the guy for decade. That's my take.

@Righteousdewd - That is a pretty good question. i don't think i know the answer to that. it's like a sociological puzzle. major city vs. surf culture.
@wavecraver I don't anymore either so im more choosy now. Diane Arbus? never heard of it. googled it and i think it is cool.
@Marklar pretty funny dude. i know who you are.
@Latarian Milton i got fat cuz my sister died a few years back. but im making a comeback now. so , thanks!
#WhatElse

pelicanpaul I almost commented on the fact that those do not appear to be local indians. did you know that the Miwoks kept track of which oak trees had the sweet acorns as opposed to the bitter ones as they were in no position to breed out the bitterness?

those look like Apaches, but the actual distribution of the Athapascan Indian Tribes is somewhat complex, here you go:

http://aboutnativeamericans.blogspot.com/2012/03/about-athapascan-indian...

...those r Miwoks

Goddam, can we hit the century mark? Also, making fun of weight is a low blow and I think I saw the latest instagram of Chris Wilson, and indeed, he's looking svelte at the bowling alley. Had two chicks (of the azn persuazn) with him too, so he's no bubba anymore.
Anyway, my point is no personal attacks, it's part of the don't be a dick doctrine.

Hey wait. They are not carrying surf boards! Someone is now going to post guys from the 70s in spandex. But as locals they seem pretty chill. I do not sense aggression. Maybe a little anger at the acorns...

.

The pic I posted is of Geronimo (Apache). I'm not sure where he went to high school though. Tough crowd here, even giving the Native Americans a hard time for not being local enough!

The Bay Miwok and Their Territories

The Bay Miwok tribes had one to five semi-permanent villages and numerous temporary camping sites within a fixed territory of about 6 to 10 miles in diameter. Each tribe knew its land and boundaries intimately and owned the land communally. They probably lived within different watersheds, consumed seasonal foods such as acorns, seeds and salmon and took advantage of their proximity to the river. The Bay Miwok tribes each ranged in numbers from 200-500 at the time of European contact.

Periodically tribes met with others to trade. Autumn gatherings on Mt. Diablo included opportunities to visit, trade, find marriage partners and dance. Anthropologist Robert Heizer wrote "we must keep in mind the extraordinary localism of California Indians…An ordinary person in his whole life probably did not travel more than 10 or 15 miles away from the spot where he was born, lived, would die, and be buried."

http://www.museumsrv.org/MSRVMiwokLanguage.html

Also check out the history of miwoks at point Reyes visitor station! They have a replica of there huts/ mud huts and teepees in the back, pretty cool,can go in to them too and make smoke clouds:) also watch out for the axis/fallow (white deer) http://www.fotwd.org/. Friends of the white deer! While there hike down or bike down bear valley trail to the beach

Morning newt!

tis.

what happened to the Indians? Killed-off by TRANSPLANTS. thanks for bringing that up.

If you make it through the white water on a DOH+ day at OB, you are pretty much a local once you get out there.

Killing off the savage natives is a white man tradition. So you better run Markler run, to The Valley, or the Trannies will get you too.

local = someone who was raised in the town or city where beaches within those cities and towns reside in. indians are as local as anyone else who was born on the land for indians once traveled the distance at one point to what we now call america.

born in sf but surfs sc = not local. but may be accepted anyways with enough recognition and time spent in either residents. although locals may call you out on it and try and kick you out. at this point its who is the stronger man or woman

neighboring cities or towns close to each other can be considered the same since surfers cover a wide range of breaks to feed our appetites(san mateo and san francisco). these may not apply to you but this is the way i see it ethically correct.

@sharkturd, post-op or pre-op?

That really is the bar Broseidon. I'm very happy to see someone else out on days like that. Kind of spooky all by my lonesome.

Marklar, I think the key difference is that transplant surfers like myself are very friendly and just stoked to be out, not pushing or fighting you off "your" land.

Hell yeah I'm stoked to be out on a DOH+ day. I'll give away and yield on any DOH+ wave, any day, to any guy who thinks he can make that steep drop after fighting through the carnage just to get there. All the "locals" just usually take the easy way out, and head to where it's a nice point break in lieu of the beach. Show me a guy who went to high school here, that goes out to the beach on those punishing days instead of choosing cotton candy paddle outs, and I'll show you a true local. Love, fearless pre-op tranny.

actually they crowned Drake

Came for the localism chat/flame war, stayed for the local history lesson.

the sardonic eye of the Broseidon adventure

@ piss_shiver- word up. well said. well said, indeed

Piss- you don't know who the locals are. Talking shit about big waves in summer is fu**ing weak. I hope you get what is coming to you....tick. tock . tick. tock.

Lets go, see you mid when its 10@16.

just surf good

Winter olympics piss shiver vs. Marklar

Chris Wilson is like a parody of, well, Chris Wilson. What a wanker.

here

Piss, I scan some of your comments from time to time, and I got the impression that you were a self-described "kook". I don't know if that's true; that's just the impression I get from your own comments. I have no idea who you are in the real world. But if you are on the kooky side, do you really paddle out at the middle when it's 10 @ 16? More importantly, do you CATCH MORE WAVES than you eat shit on?

I'm not trying to start a fight and I'm not saying you don't; I'm constantly surprised who can even MAKE IT OUT when the buoys get that serious. But, a NW at 10 @ 16 at the ###### would be REALLY solid. Actually, 5 @ 16 would be solid; 10 @ 16 is truly upper echelon.

If you are kooky, do you really think it's a good idea to paddle out on those days? I guess I ask that of anyone. It's dangerous enough for the kooky surfer, but then you potentially make things even more dangerous for the guys who are trying to get the biggest/best waves of their lives. It's like extra shrapnel in the hand grenade. I always try to check myself and not be an elitist, but on big days I'm constantly thinking, "What are you dudes DOING out here??!!" If you just want to paddle out and watch, that's fine. But this isn't a reef and you can't just sit on the shoulder. If you're going to paddle out when it's that serious just for a look, I think it's important you know how to NOT fuck up the guys who intend to do more than look.

Again, that's not necessarily directed at you Piss. I don't even know who you are. But the little debate between you and Marklar made me think of the difference between you is out there for shits and giggles and who is really out there to DO something.

Maybe piss is out there snapping photos of you ripping Kenny Reyes

As long as he is not putting people in jeopardy, he could be sitting out there in an inner tube for all I care. But my point was that there are TONS of people out there on big days that really are doing nothing more than getting in the way. I'm not trying to be all super cool and say, "I'm Joe Big Waverider. Everybody stay out of my way!" But if you are out there, too, then I think you would agree that there are a large number of people out there, or trying to get out, that really have no business being out there. Wouldn't you agree? And the numbers seem to be growing year after year.

I'm not trying to say people aren't entitled to paddle out on big days and basically do what they want. But...right ###### of a pack...on the biggest part of the beach? Really? Is that really a good idea? If you want to do it, fine. But I just ask the same of you as I would anyone: please respect others and be aware.

I'm out there grabbing bombs and assuming the stink bug stance, of course. Do I feel nervous when it's that big, yes. Shit slows down when it's that big and yes I do watch a lot. You think I go after every wave when it's cranking that hard? No. But I do go out, make it out, and I do muster up the cajones to actually drop in after a bit of watching and getting the feel of shit when it's that big.

Tom, just a suggest...you could use a comma after "Kenny". That is...unless...you got some sneaky irony/dbl. enrendre thing going on....never mind...either way works for me.

We hit the century yet? I didn't just post that to get there. I meant all of it. This however, is fluff.

Dayum!!! Well good for you piss. I take you at your word. You know the consequences of a snapped leash, a long hold-down...and as long as you're not endangering yourself or others (and that line is a fine one anyway, since even the best get into trouble sitches somrtimes) and you make it outside....then you deserve to be there. What you choose to do once you get there is your business. But, hell, since you have to go thru the wringer to get there, might as well catch a few. I can't really say as I've seen "tons" of paddlers just out for a "look" at Ocean Beach when it is going off big.

I,have,been,there,on,a,15',day,and,had,a,my,leash,break,then,held,down,on,a,few,waves,never,again,on,a,DOH,almost,died,,,,

Glad you survived, TT, that experience seems to have given you great pause.

Yeah it did turd! I paused from surfing for 10 years,but back in the game and not so loco

sounds like kindergarten in here. stupidest thread i ever read. 'localism' is the behavior of a lower life form because it is backed with bullying or an underlying threat of violence, and people who 'enforce' it or promote it suck. anybody who tries to enforce a 'locals only' code should be tossed in the slammer for a few days for being an asshole. i wouldn't go to the grocery store and 'claim' the cereal aisle for christ sake. how lame. what a major disappointment to see this behavior in so-called 'adults'. lame!

Yet, here you are. Welcome to the narrative, stupid....as always, just sayin.

i'm only posting to push back on this idea. the more people who vote against localism the better.

...sand from Canada, crabs from China, the weeds in my yard and the starlings that crap on my car are from Europe...

It's disgusting, isn't it, newt? It never ends...even the waves come from some other fekin place.

I never got crabs from a chinese gal?

If you catch a mitten crab

Do not throw it back alive!
Take a close-up photo.
Note the precise location where the animal was found.
Freeze the animal, keep on ice, or as a last resort preserve it in rubbing alcohol.
Mitten crab specimens may be needed to confirm sightings, contact the Mitten Crab Hotline at 443-482-2222 or email your photo to SERCMittenCrab@si.edu to determine if your specimen is needed and for shipping directions.

Holy crap, this thread is collapsing beneath the weight of its own hubris. Ocean Beach localism? Give me a break!!! Where did your parents go to high school? Mom graduated from Washington, Dad from Lowell. Kept my boards and wetsuit in Grandma's garage across the street from Stern Grove. I've lived and surfed all over California and Hawaii, and can state without hesitation that the Bay Area is a fabulous place with killer weather, gorgeous women, educated residents and awesome surf. Once I scored my fine job in Oakland, I was stoked to finally get paid professional wages and have no problem commuting to surf. Can't get out as much these days, but still on it enough to take advantage of the offshores. I stockpile sick days like a squirrel hoarding nuts.

Back in the 80's I used to drive the Great Highway looking for other surfers just to gauge how big the surf was. Stoked to even find someone else to surf with. There was no internet forecast or HD camera and the buoys were only updated every three hours on the weather radio - plenty of time for the surf to suddenly pop. Wise gave a report at 10 am, but the wind was already up by the time you got through the busy signal. The best dude was nicknamed Pee Wee - however he was anything but. ###### Locals? Hah! Roll a doob withTruelove and its all good. 10 at 16? That's a shoulder dislocation asking to happen and I'm waiting for low tide at my favorite point. Even today, the three most well known hellmen at the Beach are from Connecticut, Del Mar and Brazil. Warshaw's made a career writing about San Francisco surf and he's from LA.

Hey Marklar - missed you in left field behind the chainlink chasing down Mad Dog's moon shots - "tell it goodbye!"

good stuff dan

Dan! thanks for the post! Puts a smile on my face.

@dan "Back in the 80's I used to drive the Great Highway looking for other surfers just to gauge how big the surf was. Stoked to even find someone else to surf with" Wurd. I felt like it was like that all the way throught the 90's too. Seemed like around early 2000 things started to change..