I'm at an interesting stage in my surfing development, with the ultimate goal of progressing to Big Wave surfing tow-ins. I give myself no 'status' of ability or experience. I am just me.
I achieved most of my progression on my 7'4" x 20' x 20 1/4 'Javelin' Gun in overhead to double overhead shore dump in France (but have always lived in the UK).. Totally unsuitable board for the conditions, but as a naive surfer a year ago, I bought what I was told was a Funboard. Oh how wrong the seller was, I now realise.
I am 6' 0", 13.5 stone, big chest, wide shoulders, 32" waist. Essentially, big framed, thin and very toned with good muscle group development. I am looking at possibly shelling out a lot of money on a new board (fish) to add to my quivver, as I live in San Fran now, miles away from anything resembling 'big' waves. This is purely to get out in the water daily, and get more enjoyment than i currently reap from using my Gun. I can hold my breath during a functioning paddle out for 2mins 24 seconds at the moment.
I surf purely for the adrenaline kick of fast movement and big wave risk, and have no interest in pulling tricks etc. Just going as fast as possible. I possess insane levels of bravery and push myself as hard as possible in everything I do in life (I am currently out with a fractured ankle from getting smashed one night recently and stacking it into a curb on the walk home).
My search for advice has led me to the question of training vs new board.
Do you guys think it is better to shell out on a new board, or to plough my money into getting fitter, and 'harder' with other forms of sporting exercise/training combined with surfing still on my Gun in SF waters during off-peak season.
I am a professional DJ, so spend 24hrs on average each weekend during the winter solidly dancing in clubs, which means I am ultra-fit (when combined with twice weekly football sessions, lots of running and badminton too).
(Also, I have a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering, so I understand the Thermodynamic laws which govern surfboard design and usage)
Would boxing training help?
In terms of suits, I am about to get a second bespoke 4:3, (and some body armour/bouyancy aids in the near future).
Cheers, and please excuse the length of my post!
