Riding the Skeleton

1889

They come from all over the world now to ride this wave. The name itself is a clever deception and accurate indicator of what lies in wait for the eager pilgrim. The digital dream clip safely packaged onto YouTube or some such similar narcissistic social networking platform is largely to blame as are the rags that call themselves journals and surfing publications – ourselves included. An edited clip or the deception of a moment in time captured by the click of a digital shutter cannot hope to do justice to the experience of going out into the sun-baked, wind-blasted desert wasteland and attempting to ride that freight train.

The first thing that newcomers and returning devotees alike need to deal with is the scale of the experience. I suppose for rugby players it would be like trying to play a game on a field the size of 20 normal rugby fields all stacked together, or for golfers playing 180 instead of 18 holes. The result is predictably bewildering.

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sharkturd
36 weeks ago

Great, another must-have and prerequisite surf adventure to claim your "coreness" and your surf cred. What's the name there of the luxury surf resort and where do I book it?

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