Mark writes: Matt Warshaw is the quintessential surfer. He was a pro in the 80s, the editor of Surfer Magazine, the author of the History of Surfing and has narrated surfing so extensively that he has shaped the way we talk and think about it. Matt loves surfing as deeply as any of us can love any of the things we do. In San Francisco, he could grab waves whenever he wanted.
Then one day he quietly gave it all up and moved to a place where waves are very far away.
I last ran into Matt him where I always run into him–in the water, waiting for waves. We talked about the rising swell, the fading winds, stuff like that, before he casually mentioned that he was on the brink of moving to Seattle.
It’s been a few weeks now. But I’ve been wondering about Matt and his move. I wondered what would it would take to make a man leave a thing that is at the core of his being. So I asked him.
