All the reports said it was perfect for a few waves up and down the coast, but the problems with all these type of waves is if any of the elements – tides, winds, swell direction, etc. – are slightly distorted, they just don’t work properly. It’s always a gamble to make the call, especially when the drive can be between three to fifteen hours.
It’s an expensive process for both the underground, unpaid surfers that do it purely for the love of it, and also for me as a photographer. A few double pages in the magazines, just token fuel money at best, the live open ocean arena, the serenity (on most occasions) and being a part of proceedings is the justification for making the long journey.
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