TT : how long you been getting pitted?
Unfocused: shit brah, since i was like 12, brah. started standin on my boogie board...and i was like...time to shred the stick. got my first shorty, 6'4
Was OB Your first beach or other! Who Got you going?
Unfocused: OB wasn't my first beach, brah. in fact, it was Carmel. my folks used to take us there on the weekends. one of my favorite beaches on Earth.
Who are your sponsor's and like to give a shout out too?
Shit brah: Java Beach, or the Java ho as me and the boys call it. Also, the Pittsburgh Pub, and Cajun Pacific. The ChaAlet dumped me. Cliffhouse and Tan Lang dumped me too. said i wasn't focused enough. go figure, brah.
Big Ups to Big Yank. they been out for a minute
Question from the audience: Have you ever snaked anybody? And if so, did you become a dick and exude your power over the dude?
No TU LANs? When your not surfing what do you do?
Never snaked anyone Uncle. im a kind gentleman. as the great Duke said once: "wave will come, wave will go"
i live by that brah. You want this next wave, brah? go for it. all yours :) like a true OG
How did it feel to land the cover of Surfer Magazine? Did you frame the cover?
Nah, brah. so many covers, so little room. (laughs out loud)
What did you wear to the junior dance?
When not surfing? skating, lurking...sitting on the beach, you know...lurking :)
What are the three beauty products you can't live without?
What advice do you have for young female athletes, hoping to compete in sports that are dominated by guys?
The Junior dance?...hmmmmm, a tux, prolly. took shrooms that night. i remember that. actually, that was when i was a Freshman and took a Junior to her Junior dance.
my boardshorts, my vans, and my wetsuit :) kinda of bum
Girls gotta step it up, brah. it ain't impossible. their startin to charge for sure. eat right. don't listen to males. date the right surfer bro's. and above all...STAY FOCUSED!
Cool man! Good night burtha! Puppy time:)
Maybe interview me on Monday night
@WG- my most unStoked moment for sure was when this kook yelled at me for not telling him to go after i backed off the peak. Uncle, i didn't even know he was there. He just starts barkin' about how if im going to paddle to the peak, i better go. and if not, i better tell him too!
I flipped my shit! i was just a pup, and i lost it! paddled right over to him, splashed water at him. told him he wasn't from around here( and he wasnt) and basically chased him outta the water. he was begging me for to stop and leave him alone. i made this punk feel like such a coward. and you know what? i felt terrible. it haunted me for weeks. i never wanted to make anyone feel like a coward. he started it. and i finished it. but i felt more bad for him. it's hard to explain. surfing is spiritual. so much inner peace. and then this punk calls me out?? fuck ,man. i was so worked up, i messaged Steve Pezman at the Journal. i needed someone to talk to. the few times i seen that blow-in since, he was so nice and kind. it's been about ten years, and of course, he ain't around anymore. most unStoked i ever been. oh yeah, and the time it was super crowded and i told Chris Isaac i hoped him and everybody would go home. haven't seen him around either.
Tomorrow night for sure brah. Thanks for the interview. it's been a pleasure :)
Definitely felt bad about saying that to Isaac. I was just a kid.