Today was interesting. There was ALOT of energy in the water. Here are some of my reflections on the matter.
Trying and failing
40 weeks ago
I've been there a few times. It's funny how a pummeling can turn into motivation to try it better/different next time.
40 weeks ago
I went out to LM yesterday with the intention of getting pummeled. Took out a short board I've been given. I was in a bad mood and looking for abuse. But not "Crpyto getting slammed by a mack truck worth of water" abuse, just "oh hey it's a little rough at LM" abuse.
Sometimes it's a good thing, assuming you're in one piece at the end.
40 weeks ago
I drove by LM last night to pick up some stuff at the shop. It didn't look like "oh hey it's just a little rough at LM" to me o_O
40 weeks ago
Good on ya! Even though we all say that the ocean (esp. OB) is our mistress, it's easy to forget just how puny we are...
40 weeks ago
I went out today just to get over my "damn those waves are big" fear. Not an epic session, but it felt great to get out, survive, catch a couple of waves. Reminded me I can do it & prepped me for the rest of fall / winter.
40 weeks ago
OTF, I got out around noon, it was def picking up then. I got in before the WTF BOMB OUCHY roughness. People were still getting waves when I was out. I have no doubt by the evening it was choppy, facebreakingly unpleasant or flat as a pancake. It felt like that kind of day.












