Bruce writes: I have to admit I had to stop and think about it. I started surfing during a time of extreme change in surfboard design. Literally overnight, the standard 9’6 noserider was out and 6’9 plastic fantastic machines were all the rage.
I grew up in Huntington Beach, California, with an older brother that was already well into the surf scene. Although I had already started surfing, I had to go through that first winter riding borrowed boards without the benefit of a wetsuit to convince my parents that I was serious about, what was to them, just another passing teenage fad.











