Why do people SUP in big surf?

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Rant - Why do people SUP in big surf?

I know that there are biases against sweepers but I am honestly curious. Why do people SUP in big surf? I've been blown apart on bigger days on a 7' and it's not fun and I would think having a 10' board and paddle is just to much to have on a big day. I'm not trying to be an a-hole just want to know why people grab a SUP instead of something more suitable for bigger surf? This rant stems from being cube locked and watching the lane cam.

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ncalsurfer
19 weeks ago

I don't know why they do it, but that's about all Jeff Clark surfs on now. I would never do it for the same reason you mention. It's great exercise, and if I lived in SC I'd use it to paddle distance to harder to reach spots when its 3-5'

leadingzero
19 weeks ago

I saw Jeff on a SUP in Pacifica on a small day and had to do a double take.

Zurffy
19 weeks ago

When they get out there it looks super fun on big empty days. Those paddles work really well to get in to big ones early. Crowded days on the otherhand is a different story...
But I myself am supportive when people are considerate.

Rev.MCC
19 weeks ago

I once saw this video of Laird and Dave K. riding SUP's in massive empty sectioned surf.. It was kind of amazing... At one point Dave was riding backwards talking to Laird... creepy! I guess if you are that good why not..

As an aside I once surfed inside of Jeff Clark when he was SUPing at LM and he was no where near the a-hole some of the regular "Bitter Old Guys" are when they're at LM on any size board or day... So maybe the problem is not the board but the rider...

hmmm there's a thought

madpie
19 weeks ago

I hate to say it but I've been out on several decent size days at OB this fall/winter when I've seen SUPers get vastly more and vastly better waves than any of us proners. Like those days/hours when most of the sets don't quite hit the outer bar and instead crack on the inside? I watched an SUPer get probably ten such waves while I sat there bobbing up and down, waiting for the once-every-half-hour set that would actually break where I could catch it. Particularly at OB, the board that can paddle is the board that wins. But I agree that it doesn't seem too fun to have to handle one of those boards when you're actually *on* the wave.

hasbro
19 weeks ago

@madpie: the telescoping board?

ncalsurfer
19 weeks ago

uh hasbro, didn't you mean telescoping wavejet??? :P

nyckomondor
19 weeks ago

You should ask Jeff Clark. While you're at it, can you ask him how in the hell he does it SWITCH stance? See photos 55-63.
http://norcalsurfphotos.smugmug.com/SurfPhotos2011/San-Francisco-12311/15562348_tX8qL#!i=1165863192&k=9T2QE

greacen
19 weeks ago

Saw someone carting half of a SUP back to the parking lot at pillar point this am and had the same thought.

Kai Ryssdal
19 weeks ago

A classic example of the dodge and stab.

shredlife
19 weeks ago

my friend paul surfs ob on any day on a sup. he's older, much older, doesn't have the strength in his body to pop up anymore. he rips, his ankles are destroyed, and he has said he should just be at home living off disability / social security.

sandcastle
19 weeks ago

how the hell anyone gets those things through big ob shorebreak is beyond me. but i've seen sweepers here ripping 12 foor plus waves many times.

Wave Glider
19 weeks ago

The Isolation of the SUP'er

jesus.walked.on...
19 weeks ago

They do it for the same reason they SUP in smaller surf. They can catch more waves, and they can get longer rides by catching the waves further out. What is "suitable" for surf conditions is a matter of opinion. In small surf a longboard might suit one guy and a fish might suit his friend. It just depends on what type of surfing you enjoy doing.

What about the 7'er on big days blew you apart? Getting on the wave? Riding it? Getting out?

fin
19 weeks ago

I hate most SUP guys..because they do not come from Surf backgrounds...and cause problems.The older surf/SUP guys I tolerate...as lond as they keep some distance. Gerry Lopez said SUP is the best way to surf big waves. interesting...

drei
19 weeks ago

You know how you see a bodyboarder on a wave, and you automatically think to yourself, I could never go back to laying down now that I stand up? Well there is some of that once you have tried SUP. Not quite the same, but to some extent. You have a lot more mobility, and it's hard to give that up. Personally I like to SUP the small waves, but surf when it's bigger, just because of how the board fits into the wave. But I can see the appeal where the wave is slopey like the Lane. I also agree with fin, SUPs should practice extra aloha and stay away from the pack.

SUPbro
19 weeks ago

I'll ride the fish on smaller days but SUP exclusively on larger days.. I like to be able to get in early, have longer rides, and I just feel more comfortable in big surf with more mobility. I tolerate guys like fin as long as they don't drop in and keep some distance.

fin
19 weeks ago

SupBro needs to get in early and feel comfortable

SUPbro
19 weeks ago

I don't need to get in early, fin, I just like to most of the time. Bro, you need to learn the difference between like and need, especially with regards to your girlfriend since I got into her early last week.

john_galt
18 weeks ago

The reason to SUP big waves basically boils down to 2 issues, mobility and vision.

At OB on a big day like today 1/10/12 9@15 you have a very large playing field to deal with. Sets are breaking East/West with a range of ~50-100 yards and typically you have a North/South current kicking, especially when there is a 6' tide swing like today. On a laydown board , even a really big 10' gun you are limited by how strong your arms are. And if you paddle all around, in/out south for one set, north for the next you are smoked after 2 hours. On a SUP, even a small one, you are using larger muscle groups that can handle much higher energy outputs and enable you to fight the current and get into that spot. If you are not able to get the best waves... who cares what board you have. (More on that later.)

More important than mobility is vision. On SUP, when a long period set is coming we know about 2 minutes before the lay down crew. Keep this in mind when you are surfing around SUP guys. If they are scratching for the horizon they probably saw something. I have also noticed that when I surf prone I can't see the patterns and currents nearly as well. On my SUP I see laydown surfers paddling the wrong way trying to set up for a wave, paddling in for a wave when a much larger set wave is right behind it, etc. I try to let the lay down guys know if a good wave is coming at them, so if you hear us hooting at you...

The other note is that in big waves, say 15' on the face or bigger, the performance advantage of a 6' potato chip shortboard vs. a SUP is gone. There are a few guys on the tour who can surf big waves on real shortboards, but everyone I see catching waves is on at least a semi-gun, and most of the Mavericks crew surfs the beach on their small Mavz boards, say ~9'ish. I'm riding a 9' SUP that surfs way better than any gun I have, and with the leverage the paddle brings you can rail a lot harder. I've ridden bigger SUPs that allow early entry into the long period swells, 17 seconds plus, and these are fun, you can catch huge walls and race across them, but on most days you end up outrunning the sections.

Aloha

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