Bigger than expected and mostly clean - HH+ on the outside sets. Generally fun though OB was playing a bit of 'hide the banana' this morning, switching between inside and monster outside sets. I got caught inside on a second multi wave set when I decided I had enough.
Swell looks to be dropping, but there was plenty energy this morning. Sunny and windless made it beautiful out there.
Emboldened by watching pros I took off deeper than I should have, went over, and got thoroughly ragdolled, took a stinger to the thigh from my rail yet am still totally stoked. Fun ones.
Right place, right time. Of course, if you miss that, you wind up like I did, with a damaged board. First q-cell and resin date of the season.
Right place, right time indeed. Very fun out there if you can grab em. Lots of water moving around and weird counter-current rips discovered after getting caught inside one too many times. Too bad about your board. I wanna hear more about what happened.
Definitely a right time/right place kind of morning. No wind, beautiful morning, good energy, but none of those conditions seemed to really be cooperating with each other.
But after 4 days of eating fried oyster & shrimp poboys & drinking cold beers, any exercise is good exercise.
@daniel, the story is pretty uninspiring really. i grabbed a HH+ right, went down the line a bit, it closed out, i straightened and then hopped off the tail. i surfaced to find that the leash had pulled through the tail. bummer, but easily repaired.
I agree with the others. A bit of a mixed bag, as always. Some long period clean sets and some nice sized long rides, interspersed with some ragged sections and some monster sets cleaning us up. Got held down under a big one for longer than I have in quite some time. But still a beautiful sunny morning with some very fun waves.
def enjoying the extra hour of dawn patrol surf since the time change. stuck to the inner bar after getting bored waiting for the outside sets, managed to score several fun reforms
Went out again for a sundown session towards DC, energy fading fast, still some peaky fun ones to be had. Double stoked.
