Head high and somewhat breezy, a little soft. Totally surfable but a little right time right place. Board selection - need something that can get in on softer waves but still handle some size. Strong current made for a total paddlefest or scenic tour of the beach.
Good times out there. Saw some sykmynded drops, along with some pretty funny burgers. Saw @sticker hop on a total burger that had already broken, but then turned into something pretty solid later inside. He's such a dog :)
I had some fun on my 7'2 but sure enough got windier and bigger and messier and I definitely didn't have enough foam at that point. Early on it was good fun on
The outside... Big drops, bumpy bottom turn
Then soft nothingness kickout
First half hour out was a bit of a magic hour. But then the south winds started affecting the waves & the right place/right time conditions got even more right place/right timier. Still some fun waves to pick off if you were lucky or could stay on that peak that was always 100 yds to the north & 50 yds further out.
Still got enough to be pretty stoked for the rest of the day.
Surf!
Fun, wouldn't think they were longboard waves, but that sure seemed to work well today. More foam, more better. Building.
mustve gone out wrong time/place... paddle was no fun 7 - 8 a.m. Shouldve taken the hint that there was no one else out except us. spent 15 minutes getting out, caught one goodie, spent 15 minutes failing to get back out and headed to work
