Things were fun but intermittent today. Absolutely spectacular morning though cold. Waves were shoulder high and clean, but it was really a longboard day. Light offshores. Caught a few beauts on my mini-log and had a great time. However, there were some substantial waits in between sets. Lower tide could turn it I to a longboard paradise later.
Beautiful, cold morning and lots of glassy, peely waves. Even saw a Linda Mar refugee out there.
suffering from severe taco neck after all the mini-barrels this morning. dropknee session in a frosted wetsuit. genitals achieving a concave formation.
After being in Kaua'i for over a week there was a bit of a cold shock to the hands this morning. Went to take off on my second wave and my numb hands laughed at me as I slid off the front. Snagged some really nice peeling CH rights and one racy SH left that I lucked into. Sunny, lone dolphin cruising around, clean waves. Glad to have decent conditions to come back to.
Linda Mar refugee checking in.
Pretty happy with the morning. Change of scenery was nice and the long clean log rides were even nicer. Almost wished I'd taken my BIG longboard out, but a few sloshing inside moments kept me happy with what I brought.
Nice seeing you guys out there.
Got in a bit later, had a blast. Looking forward to more days at OB now that I work in the city.
Fair-minus!? Come ON. Give it a good-minus or I'm gonna go all Thelma & Louise, meng!
I was trying to temper my enthusiasm on the ride home. It was hard. I was doing a happydance.
Folks not out on logs, folks who like a bigger wave, folks who dislike long lulls, or folks who normally surf ocean beach may not experience tiny happydance.
PS, Nice ride, Cazart.
I find it hard to grade on a simple scale. Also, I've instituted a harsher grade level. For me, Good = HH+ (or shoulder high if the surf is spectacular), clean, maybe some offshores, and regular. I gave today a Fair- becuase:
1. Intermittent. When we were out at high tide, things went totally slack (I mean TOTALLY) for 20-30 minute periods
2. Although there were some great waves out there, there were also tons of flabby ones too
3. Size was not great, though still fun
But - I will agree that it was possible to have a GREAT day out there on the right board. I had a very fun session.
Grading actual wave quality is tough. Grading enjoyment is much easier, but does not necessarily reflect wave quality.
Great seeing you out there Tracey. Very fun. :) Nice waves on the log today. WH to CH peelers. Nice to have something different for a change, although I'm fine if it picks up again soon. :)
Early am there was so much tide that the waves were missing the outer bar and just unloading on the inner one. Mini-pits all over the place. Made it mo' trickier on a big board than on a little one. Other parts of the beach may have experienced different results.
P.S. Thanks, T, but no it isn't. It's a big hunk of German pain-in-my-hindenquarters. Although if G would ever show up a at the same time we could probably scare the living crap out of the French.
