Witness the thickness. Solid groundswell on tap. The walls of inside whitewater hit you like a freight train. Less shape than yesterday but more power. Would give it a good+ for size and a fair+ for shape. Medium-strong S current. Be prepared for heavy waves.
It's a leash-snapping, board-cracking, blam fest out there. I got one big right with a little cover up and called it good.
Good times out there this morning. Constant paddle battle made it a three donut morning. :D
Awesome session. First thing I saw after pulling up was a guy swimming in with a broken leash, and no board to be seen anywhere. Not a bad paddle out. Caught some big left's then sat just inside and watched others tear it up. Great vibe out there to.
Around 11:30 at TUV it was humming. Long lulls though, but the water was clear and if you were in the right place at the right time a heaving grinding A-frame was there for your surfing pleasure or perhaps a quick launch into space. Had a front row seat floating chin deep in the impact zone while a red SUP dropped smoothly into a big peeling blue DOH wave of the day 20 feet in front of me. Quite a sight.
good times until i noticed someone trying to break into my car from the break. (probably were trying to get to my reserve boards covered up in the passengers seat)... anyways took off late but was so pissed i made the drop and rode it in. i proceeded to run up the cliff and chased off the (insert words of your choice)
Man, stoked. Just stoked. Every ride I had was frickin' awesome. Until my last one which resulted in this:
chasing rhinos. that's all I say. got a few but was humbled in the end with a caught inside thrashing. saw some amazing rides from shore. rating: wow +
Ok - gonna try something new here. A musical expression of my session at OB this morning around 10AM.
The Refused - New noise by J's sounds exploration
would be great if we could post the Soudcloud embed code right on here....John?
@sticker, what the hell happened to your board to peel the glass off like that? OUCH! Delam and some hard hold downs?
@sticker, I don't know whether to pick the thumbs up or the thumbs down. A busted board is always a bummer, especially if it worked.
All around epic day. Throaty huge barrels, solid wave count and a self regulating line up.... What more could you ask for?
@makai, Last wave of the day, thought I'd make the late drop. I didn't. Grabbed my board after my thrashing, and it felt like a snake shedding its skin. Totally worth it, though. Epic day.
I think factory stock Rusty boards are constructed too weak for heavy norcal waves. I once had a Rusty snap in half while still in my hands as I was duck diving on just an average big day at OB. Terrific shapes for small surf, but come on!? Looks like your board reversed flexed in the foam ball.
