1pm-230pm OB. jekyll and hyde situation. lefts were steep and hollowish and fast and broke hard and i wasn't enough of a rodeo star to manage them. rights were smooth and clean and pleasurable, and my desire for smooth & clean pleasure prevailed; i got lotsa rights. wind was moderate sideshore/offshore, sun was out, and it was just me and the gulls, and a few heads in the distance. better than i thought it'd be --- kind of the theme for the week, for me.
fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach
piss_shiver
22 weeks ago
22 weeks ago
dude that is so funny because a few of my lefts were leaving me with that sinking feeling...you know...where you get on, drop in, and it's a total rodeo fight....and then it happens: Shit gets insane...steeper, hollower, and then if you don't grab rail, you simply skid along the face watching your board go out from underneath your feet, and get pitted, while you, on the other hand get SHITTED.
When it happened, I was like "I shoulda coulda held on to that...damn...." as I saw my board get tubed and my ass get pitted.
I did have some redeeming lefts that I did manage to hold on to via da grabs..., but there was one that definitely was the one that got away :(
Still sick as a dog, but I needed the maintenance.
Stoked.
futuresparky
22 weeks ago
22 weeks ago
Reading this dialogue makes me hate having to work all day. Glad you all had a nice time though.
Zurffy
22 weeks ago
22 weeks ago
Glad you got some! On the cams I watched it get better and better until the sun went down. I was still working after that even. Why are days so short during the surf season? How can we do something about that?
pelicanpaul
22 weeks ago
22 weeks ago
yep. burning the candle at both ends and none of it in the water these days. got to love the sunsets from that cam. glad someone is hanging at the beach these days..









