Clean small fun this morning. Waist shoulder high and clean. Cold, but felt good when the sun came out. Empty.
Giving it fair- compared to the excellent surf we have been having. Also a bit intermittent. But enjoyable on some foam if you feel like getting out.
The walk across the dunes/beach at dawn was brutal but I love seeing my breath when it's cold like this in the surf. I saw one other person at the end of my 6 block drift this morning. so empty.
Only saw Hasbro sans booties out there and one other guy before I embraced the drift. Hope his feet are still working. Most waves quickly softened up or had flabby shoulders but lucked into one HH nugget that drained nicely through the inside that made the session worthwhile. + for the solitude and the sunshine.
sorry i didn't see you pickle. been a while. i was nice and toasty in gloves, booties, suit, etc. fun enough.
My favorite moment at OB was about this time last year as well....In the lot..."Can we have this conversation in the water please?"
Crunching across the frost-covered sand was a nice touch this morning. I had a ball on the small waves. Caught a bunch, found a few that held up. Pristine, gorgeous morning... quiet, cold, and peaceful.
weird swirling rip/current ... had a dry hair paddle out but it felt like it took forever to get to the wave. softer than I expected for low tide. empty and sunny though, so no complaints
wasn't that bad where i was. the crowd started to form around some peaks near me but i pulled into a small barrel or two so i was stoked. My 2nd to last wave left a nasty bruise on my shoulder along with 3 fin marks on my back when i pulled in and then tried to escape through the doggy door. (a 2 ft high doggy door mind u lol) needless to say i failed. after that took 1 more called it a day. wasn't as bad as i expected it would be
