Waist-Chest high sort of near the middle-ish kinda. Inconsistent. Clean long lines were scattered throughout the beach and there was no real defined peak where I was at, or as far as I could see in either direction. Lined up and fun when you could get a good one. Not too weak either. I rode a 5'6" stubby shortboard and was having a ball. This was between 6:45 and 8:30 AM.
Had the short and foamy and it did me some good. Sprinkled amongst the softies were some fun ones. Pretty mellow, though. A little more action woulda kept me warmer. This cold surfing reminds me of my days in Sonoma County. It gets downright frigid up there.
Mellow was the word. Beautiful sunrise, small, clean waves. Not bad. A side note, 3 out of the 5 guys in the 'lineup' were without booties. I love going bootie-less most of the year to have a better feel of the board but it was damn cold out again this morning. My feet woulda been numb. Hat's off to the high metabolism of those guys.
Def mellow. I took my 9'4 out and was pretty happy I did. A big ole thick ole board got in to those softies pretty well. Fair for sure, but always stoked to have a loggy Ocean Beach day with space to myself.
getting out is the worst....a walk of more than 3 blocks will yield stumps for feet and claws for hands. Tis brutal.
Shredlife, if this guy in the photo who has lived and surfed here for 30 years surfing today is news to you then maybe you should put a plastic bag over your head and breathe. He surfs every day, who cares, get a life you stalker weirdo.
