Well...that was fun and interesting I guess. I dunno, if you like 1.5x to DOH waves at 12s, then I spose there's something to go for. I'm dumb AND pretty lucky so I guess that's why I actually made it out to the outside. While getting there though...yeah...1.5X pounders to the head on the inner bar, and once you make it past that, well you got the outside pushing real hard back at you at almost the same thunder. After finally finding a seam, and driving North towards Kannuckistan, it was go time! And by go time I mean try to catch a head and a half curling monster that shelves out and sucks your 5'10 out, and throws you off your board with a mogul of texture. Made it out, got bucked off. If surfing were easy they'd call it catch-a-wave. :)
fair surfing conditions at San Francisco - Ocean Beach
1 year ago
I was watching from the bluff on my morning walk with kid and dog, and saw someone get absolutely destroyed. Took off, got caught in lip and then lip and human body went crashing down into the ocean. I then decided that I should head to work and not think about a pre-work surf. Kudos to those who paddled out.
1 year ago
@piss,
A 5'10"?! You took a fucking 5'10" out there?
Please move a little to the left. Your giant balls are blocking the webcam.
#respect
1 year ago
Size doesn't really matter for me...I dunno dude...I like small boards even on big days...what I've noticed though is that I've learned the hard way that when there's texture, small boards really don't respond that well. I can get to my feet just fine on the big stuff on the small board, but one buck and it's over (like today). Whereas, on a larger board, I feel it's a bit more impervious to texture. When it's really macking out there, like SOLID DOH, sure I'll reach for the 7'0, but that's pretty much where I max out on board length. I find that smaller boards are fun. My go to has been the Rusty Pirhana quad 5'10. It surfs so well because it really bites into the wave with the quad. Steep drop forcing a grab? No problem, she'll hold.
1 year ago
I second RMK's comment. I commend you, good sir. This is the first year in about three that I haven't gone out on a single DOH day. Last year's board snap, hold down, and swim in from waaaay outside shook me up and turned me yellow. 5'10 does seem intensely small. The board I broke last year was a 6'3 Rusty quad. A dude brought me the nose piece in the lot and was shocked that I paddled out on twelve foot day with something that small. You're a full five inches down from that! What's next, a waxed up skate deck at Mavs?
1 year ago
Having known you for a long time Piss, I stand by my usual comments. Get a properly sized board and you'll get more waves and less lip tossing beat downs. You'll also have more fun for what it's worth. Only Kelly Slater should be riding sub-6' in DOH waves.
1 year ago
I dream of catching more waves and a better paddle out.
Size does matter. I don't care what the girls say!
1 year ago
Fish are for kids. Slater rode a 5' 7" quad on the final day of the Pipe Masters and got smoked by Parko's step up pin tail thruster.
1 year ago
i'd say may have been undergunned mr. piss. my hats off to you though. I don't know you but I'd have agree with library. Alas whatever floats your stoke. If texture is a problem I recommend the foil board. That is if you don't mind being strapped in and looking as goofy as heck
1 year ago
I'll claim the lip toss, as I think piss got a slightly longer ride before his beating and I didn't see anyone else out. 6'3" myself for the record. And where were all you heroes with your long boards this morning? I've surfed 3x OH on a 6'6" no problems. >:-)
1 year ago
It is just great to get these big day reports as I can re-live all the adrenaline stoked sessions from years back without the paddle or terror... Hat's off to piss shiver and lee for never wimping out on big days. May they live a long lives but I would like to take up a collection for their new life insurance policies for them both. The grand wipeout off the lip seems really bad but is really like other wipeouts I think. You just cover a lot of distance in a very short time. Always good when the bottom is 50 feet down.
Ocean Beach Buoy Data
