From the heat of the summer equinox, to the fog, wind, and 10 to 15 degree difference, the ocean was trying to produce. The waters were delicately textured for her pleasure, and maybe yours too, with long waits between pulses, but when they did arrive, they were only slightly above the waist at times.
The resultant youngsters frolicking with their surf camps in the surf and on the beach made for slightly crowded close to shore encounters. However, the outside was the place to put your log into. Either on the left, where the interval was very long, or the right that eventually produced some consistent ocean ribs.