Not a fish day...calling it log club only. But let me further embellish my sentiments regarding the conditions even at the risk of berating the obvious:
Essentially, today was *the* day to get out there. After weeks of relentless onshore windswell lemonade making bullshit, today was the most welcome reprieve. Occasional plus sets would come in, and if you were patient you could bag a few of those, but otherwise, it's soft sledding. Bring the long board, and get right up there on the nose, because you'll have to find a way to work it once you're in, as it's not pushing back.
Also, if you bring your dog, don't walk him first. F it. Suit up and get straight in the water and leave him in the car, with cracked windows, shitting be damned. If he turds the car, so be it, you got to get some of these, for as long as and as much as possible.
huge crowd for 1903 ..What could possibly be the occasion? Don't see a rip curl tent.
I was glad to have the log, but a couple of 'em had a little oomph, and connected all the way thru.
Boy howdy that was fun. Brought the stubbie out and lucked into some bowly waves, but there were some LONG lulls. Drifted north and found some hollow/dumpy inside waves to go with the outside hop-a-thon. I'd take it again anyday.
Observed - A grown man freak out when a dolphin surfaced close to him. His arms looked like an outboard motor on his way in. Classic.
Piss - I bring my dog with me everytime, rarely walk her first, and have never found one of shatkturd's cousins in my truck after the sesh, but I have worried a few times...
Some respectable peaks came through but I agree the real star of the show were the shiny, clean conditions. I forgot what glassy looked like. Also; dolphins, big blobby jellyfish and a herd of leashless hipster clones styling with understated enthusiasm. Fun in the ocean.
LOL, jellyfish.
So there's me, up-on-the-tip-but-losing-momentum at the end of a wave...water's up to my shins...and I run smack into two of them. "Ew! Ew! Ew! EW!" #manly.
LOL, jellyfish.
sounds like everyone made the most of it today. everyone except me. im still in "getting shit done" mode. Fall is near, as we know these days will soon be a dime a dozen.
but still very Stoked for all you folks that got Stoked today. High fives to everyone!
Hey unfocused, we'll show them. I'm stuck TCB, too. Let's hit the evening session- wind is supposed to stay down...
I'll take a rain check Squid Lips. Got shit to do. But thank you. Get on it, bro. Let me know how it was...I got a high five of triple Stoked waiting for you tonight.
Go get em!
Wavecraver, what is a "leashless hipster clone"? I want to make sure I am putting the right people in the correct box.
This morning, so glassy, so clean, and I forgot how to ride a long board.
Cant just lean in to a turn. So just walk to the nose and eat shit, how about that!
Double dipping after work with the log. Look for the kook mid alphabet and say hi.
PS - I saw a jelly fish that looked like a metroid.
Good thing I brought a freeze ray and some missiles.
no wind in the a.m. and now sunny to finish off the day? is this really summer?
"Leashless Hipster Clones", you'll have to use your own imagination on this. Not wanting to cast aspersions on any actual people who were essentially just having a well mannered good time. It's more about me and my fascination with niche social trends, especially the more ironic ones and how... well... ironic they are.
right on @Marklar. just cause it's glassy don't mean it's good. i mean, i had fun out there and all but let's at least call it for what it is. knee to chest high dribblers shouldn't even register on the OB scale.
Wavecraver, if said people were essentially just having a well mannered good time, why would you feel the need to relegate them at all.
I surfed a white thruster and wore a black wetsuit today but somehow I doubt you would even notice me in the pack of hundreds who look the exact same that surf OB regularly. For some reason I don't think you would come onto this site which is supposed to be about stoke and compartmentalize me and my shortboarding friends as clones, why would you feel the need to do that to these folks?
Manuel, "why would I feel the need" seems to be your dominant question. Not whether or not groups can be compartmentalized or not because after all it was you who wanted to "put the right people in the correct box". Essentially good nature'd calling out of behavioral trends is not a bad thing unless it is made a bad thing. The conditions, marine life, crowd characteristics are all part of a description of the day. I'm sure others look at me and think "clone" of some sort or another because I am definitely not unique. As to why I feel the need?...I don't know. Why do you feel the need to spank?
@wavecrasher...that might be the most hipster thing I've read here. I mean that with great affection...or do I?
Well-put on the behaviorial trend navel gazing, wavecraver. @dewd, affection...or affliction? Gotta love it when the going gets deep at stoke report...but I'm schitzophrenic...and so am I.
gotdam, i feel the stoke. makes my ballz all tingly. long board = log, whatever the feck that is. short board = godly. mine is shorter than yours!
EXPLAIN YOURSELF MUTHERFUCKER! demanded of @wavecarvers astute aside.
amateurs are the most reactionary. or hasn't anyone noticed?
tomorrow a.m. may be good for a go-out.
keep the stoke or learn nothing.
That's it! I'm holding you all personally responsible for my anticipation and pre-stoke during my hellish workday yesterday. Busted ass to get out and rush to the beach. Absolute shit! Hour and a half, three groveling waves. If it wasn't for the dolphins, and the after session beer on the sea wall watching spouting heading south (too early for south, no? too late for north?) and a beautiful sunset, it may have been the worst session in a while...it sure is nice to be at the beach, though...
Not that this relevant, but, I am a short-boarder. always have been. always will be. can't we all get along?
i don't care if you sponge, log ride, swim with a hand board...shit, if you skim board.....just be fuckin Stoked already.
whether it's getting more crowded, or grumpy people got wood in their ass on the permanent regular,
just like Kenny Powers says, "we all the same tribe"
sheesh
Sure sure, but sometimes unfocused, you learn that the log really *IS* the right tool for the job. For the longest time I just watched my friends take their logs out as I used (and flailed with) the fish. I'm so freaking glad I finally gave in, and got a log. It's sooooo much fun working it, like I never did when I first started. Sometimes going backwards really is moving forward, and you realize there's a whole new world to logging once you have progressed to a short board. I can't reiterate enough how pleased I am to have revisited my beginning roots. That's just me.
Shivs- i appreciate that. I guess my problem is im a wave slut. I need to adjust my attitude, i will be the first to admit it. When i was younger, as a kid...i surfed all conditions...even the tiny, tiny. and now, i wont go "get wet" just to get in. Ive turned into a slutty snob that only seems to be pleased in great conditions.
i'll also admit, that on days i just didn't want to surf, but still dragged my feet, kicking and screaming because a buddy wanted to go out, or one of the few times i found myself in someone elses car, and was forced to surf or sit in the car....I still felt better I surfed. and in those cases, i suppose it is important to remember how lucky and fortunate i am to be able to walk on water. here's to a happy medium
prost
