What's the angle of today's swell? Whatever it is, it's close-but-not-quite-right. Kinda glassy, lots of dumpers. Long lulls that occasionally paid off with WH-CH walls. I watched a bunch of folks check it and drive on. Heck, I'd do it again.
also observed: I ripped the velcro strap clear off my leash.
also also observed: @tracey charging into a really nice SH+ one... w00t!