The wave conditions were fair. Sunny, glassy, super shifty and hard to line-up. My personal performance was poor minus. Is there a worse rating I can give my performance? Like Shite minus? Kook minus? Flail minus? Oh well, I got some exercise and got rinsed out. Still stoked.
I seem to have a lot of those days. I think part of it is being too lazy to bring the right board for the conditions and also, just that I suck. But I like to think it's the wrong board.
KoK, your subjects are asking you to chime in. Divine Right doesn't mean you can ignore us.
Lots of kooks out today. After my first wave as I was paddling out a guy was coming down the line towards me and some other guy. I paddled my hardest and ducked the wave while the guy next to me apparently ditched his board. The guy riding came up with the nose of his board broken off and yelled at the guy to hold onto his board. The guy didn't even know what was going on, just shrugged and said ok. Haha
There were some fun ones out there till the fog moved in. It did seem like two different swells and bit crossed up so you had to keep and eye out. Fair plus I would say. After 4 pm... Fair minus. A lot of dolphins in the water.
