Another semi-blind paddle out in the fog this morning. Found some glassy CH-SH+ waves, although it was very inconsistent and surprisingly crowded (I figured every one would be watching the Niners game). Paddled away from the crowd to chase down some dumpy close out barrels on the inside. Got worked a few times, but also got one with a sick view from the green room. Pretty fun stuff out there.
I had lots of fun. Seems like some small long period forerunners are starting to pulse in. No wind and uncrowded.
It did seem like a few forerunners were showing. Got on it later, got a little bumpy.
surfed from 1 to a bit before 3 and had a fun time. I kept thinking it was surprisingly uncrowded and wondered if people were watching football instead. Only a few guys at each peak and really easy to pick your wave. The lot was full of lots of non-surfers.
been a bit since I posted on here. OB was pretty darn fun for dropknee today. Tomorrow, s#!t is gonna get real.
Double dipped. Early bird special, followed by the afternoon before-the-wiggles at the Park ######. Saw all the usual suspects and then....as to be expected, the suspects that show up when the going's good. Missed you all this Summer. Plenty of waves for all: Dropped in on a few, got dropped in on a few :) haha. No complaints when there's that much face to be had really. Remember to bring your fish tomorrow.
Early on the new sand dune side provided plenty of glassy CH+ softer (breaking 1/3 down) on the outside reforming to punchy on the inside. Damn nice. By 8 it shut down on the outside and I was staring at the horizon for an hour. 15 waves the first hour; 1.5 closeout blasts the second hour. Was (and still am) super stoked!
