First! Good because it's finally here. Actual wave quality was fair. Sets were in the DOH neighborhood. I couldn't line 'em up (ok I was chickenshit on the first and only one I lined up). But another guy was catching them. Get out if you can!
17s period. The paddle wasn't a problem unless you paddled out during a set. Then, POW, right in the kisser.
Not to be a downer and stoked for the people who paddled out and got some. But I can't be the only one who checked it and thought it looked like complete crap?
Not necessarily good surfing, really. First, it's burly as F out there. Second, you had to choose VERY wisely where you paddled out. It all looks small and manageable while you're on your two feet. I managed to find a seam and shoot right out, but then spent two thirds of my tank trying to fight the Faralons fight. Almost ran out of beach and the decision between going over vs going in was becoming more apparent: IN. Then when I finally did make it in after getting fully flushed, I did note some dudes actually scoring. Steep, deep, and downright burly. Hats off to ya if you did make a few of those. I live to fight another day.
Even if you were properly placed at the time I went out, I'd call it fair.
Paddleout wasn't too bad. Although Ralph Kramden got me just before I made the lineup. I ended up coming in after getting caught too far inside bottomfeeding. But the beast is back. And regardless of actual quality, I just walked into the office on a Monday with a shit-eating grin on my face...suddenly I'm not bothered by that flaky chick I've been out with, the too-much-work-not-enough-money issues and other assorted detritus.
Right on, @righteous. My initial paddle out, I got whalloped & was doin' some crabwalking on the sea floor for a while. Sent me back to the start. Do not pass 'Go'. Do not collect $200. Next attempt, 5 minutes, no problemo.
Shit eatin' grinnin'.
Noted: (1) Broken leash & a dude swimming in after it. (2) A dude w/2 boards where he only had 1 prior to paddling out.
somehow everything just worked out great, despite early pessimism. yes it was frothy, yes the currents were swirling, yes the peaks were junky and shifting around. But, I havent ridden DOH waves in about 7 months. so it was EPIC. even hit a nice aerial on my ride in. now im at work blegh.
Good? I think a Fair- would be better, if this was january it would be poor-, we havent seen waves in 6 months, so everyone forgot what they look like. South winds, textured sloppy crumbled messy closeouts. A decent peak here and there if you are lucky enough to drift past one as the current pulls you along the the beach.
Kind of confused. You report "good because it was here" even though you say what is here is only fair, and even at that you explain that you didn't get any anyway, but then apparently on account of seeing what someone else was doing, you call it good. Sounds like a fairly good day to not get any waves.
Whatever you do, don't read this comment, it was not supposed to be posted. Not sure what the hell happened, someone other than me must have clicked on post comment more than once. So again, don't read this.
I think we have finally graduated to the big leagues of social media. This is the first "my twitter was hacked" post I've seen.
Righteous, like a big swell I guess that one went over your head. There was no hacking involved. I was joking, the someone other than me that accidentally hit the post button twice was actually me - causing a duplicate post of the one that is immediately above it. Prior to piss pointing out how to have the post delted, I didn't know how.
When we got there at dawn, the waves were big and shitty. Wind was on it and we were swept up near the rocks after a relatively easy 10 minute paddle. We were then in the swirling cauldron of shit that is the rocky part of the beach on a large swell. Stupid. Anyway, we paddled down a ways for about 30 minutes and finally made it to a point where the currents were idle. The winds had slowed down a bit during the paddle as well and there was about 30 minutes of smoother peaks to be had in the 1.5X OH+ arena. Caught about 4-5 fun lefts, which were really working for the next hour I was out there. Yes, there was surface texture, but there were waves to be had if you paddled out and were willing to be patient. The pack was absolutely obliterated by one of the odd near DOH sets that would sneak in and clean things up. It would have been very easy to talk yourself out of paddling out given the conditions, but as is often the case, the waves were far better than expected. I'd say a Fair rating for now.
took too small of a board out there today. got out fine, but was merely surviving the sets. welcome to the fall, and i thought the texture was pretty smooth. bringing a bigger board this afternoon.
Epic? with a nice aerial on the inside? -insert long sigh here... i was generally impressed with the reporting accuracy of todays waves until i hit this one. kookreport lives on!
I think our 650booger aerialist is a sponger. There's your "wapahh!". Those guys like to launch into the pit.
