Sand piles at 10:00; Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle...finally. It was a very nicely organized swell and if the wind hadn't been on it from the SW the surf would have been really nice (I think). As it was for the most part there were large crumbling/lunging peaks with very bumpy wave faces that kept you busy simply trying not to get launched on a mogul. Cleaned up a bit at times and saw a couple of nice waves being ridden equally nicely. Good duck diving practice, and a reminder of how bigger waves feel; nothing to write home about.