The wind was a-blowin', but it didn't ruin everything. Still some occasional oomph in the water which occasionally didn't end in a whomping close-out. Kinda shifty, but when it worked you're rewarded with a WH+ wall. Get movin'. Oh yeah, sunny!
observed: lefts AND rights.
S'ok. I'd go with fair-, but I've been surfing like crap lately. Jeeze.
At least it was kinda warmish still.
I don't know if the sandbars are all screwed up or the swell direction's just been wrong, but it's been distinctly unsatisfying down there of late. Which will not keep me from going tomorrow.
Tuesday there was this weird "It's ONLY breaking in the rip" moment and there's been lots of weird warping and funk. I dunno, I mean, I've gotten some that should have been "fun" but wound up kinda like EHHHH.
There's something missing... maybe it'll shape up after the first storm of the season.
Swell direction matters quite a bit down there. I think too much west really amps up the closeout factor.
Yes, that's true, and no one should surf there but me. And possibly you. Not you, you. And her.
I went yesterday evening, and it was a wreck. howling side/offshores, but waves just dumping in like 5-6 inches of water. The wind made it tough to get in early which made for a bunch of very ledgy drops into closeouts. I think I caught 4 waves in an hour.
