funky, munky, inside, outside. yet this session was an escape from the dreaded email that somehow manages to take the hypeness out of your life and leave you questioning just how some peoples minds function. i was hoping miki doras mentality of everything disappearing once you get out in the water would have its affect on me, but it was tough to escape the thoughts in the mind at times. each ridden wave managed to calm my nerves and get me back into stoke land. even the shitty conditions were enjoyable as i sat out there contemplating how to, or if i should respond to a harshly vibed email sent to me. ahh, first world problems.
it 's always nice to run into the friend on the beach who initially convinced you to start surfing in the first place and have them put things in perspective by simply saying "don't sweat it, we have clean drinking water".
the conditions were poor the but the act of riding those few oddly forming and breaking waves was incredible. thanks ocean, i owe ya one, or two, or a million.
on a side note here is a little skate clip i put together, there are a few shots of our wonderful coastline in there.
https://vimeo.com/51091120
cheers!
