surfed ###### 1030 to 1215 and it shaped up rather nicely for little hills of monkey fun. still kinda mushy, medium crowds but the current is doing its job of keeping everyone moving. sun is out and the water is beautiful today.
I think ###### might have been magic for an hour and I think I showed up for the last five minutes of it. Saw three people get deep barrels on my paddle out (sadly only one made it back out). I couldn't catch the mushy stuff further out and the inside bar just started slamming closed. Fought the current for a while, caught a couple closeouts, and decided to see if LM was in a friendlier mood. It was garbage.
My fingers are all kinds of crossed for tomorrow.
I had a delightful time and I didn't even make it all the way out.
The ocean was very gentle to me. Even though I went through a couple spin cycles, I don't think I pulled a single muscle, which is a milestone.... of sorts.
Met lots of cool people, spread some SR love, got wet. Can't complain. STOKED
This morning I surfed ######... then ######... then Rivera... got out at Santiago.
###### WAS magic for a couple hours, up until the wind hit it. Shoulder high tubes as far as the eye could see. And tomorrow should be the same with a bit more size
Yep was good as good gets!
Got in too early is my only damned complaint hahaha.
In at like 8 but the magic was from 10-11. Some dude on an orange fish totes covered up on the ###### of ######, and I could only oggle as Mr I've been in for 2.5hrs already couldn't muster the strength to get from the bathrooms back to drain pipe :D haha.
Maybe I'll time it better tomorrow. I got some MACKIN rides tho on my fishy in the early morning so I have absolutely no reason to complain.
