surfed OB tonite. WOW! This place can really dish out some punishment. I am from Hawaii and I must say that OB is similar to North Shore power. Any pointers for a newbie surfer to San Francisco on how to make it outside? I spent a lot of time paddling, not much time riding waves. Aloha.
Aloha and welcome! I've been watching the contest at Sunset the last couple days hearing about how heavy it is thinking, "Hey, looks like home to me." I'm no expert at OB but I can make it out. It's all about timing and zig-zagging around a bit. There was a great thread about getting out a couple weeks back -- I'd suggest digging for it as it's got great advice.
If you want company I'll be paddling out just about every day this week. Tomorrow I'll probably head down the coast, but Tues-Thurs I'm solid OB. Click on my name, click on "email" and get in touch.
That goes for anyone, by the way. I'm a social dude, and if you're willing to stare down OB, you're ok in my book.
OB, ah-- I have surfed it for many many years - well over 1000 times - nearly drown twice or at least I got scarred enough to realize its possible twice. At first it was a badge of honor, but lately I just cherry pick the good days as I am passed 40 and its really a wave for 25 - 40 year old iron man crowd. Too much paddling vs riding. But power it does posses and more than it looks like. The current is what I like least about it.
Here is my recipe for getting out at OB. (and getting in without a board)
Firstly like everything in life aptitude is important. And endurance.
Reading the channels even when it looks like there aren't any as well as paddling out just when it looks like a large set is coming is essential. Timing the place is key and luck. If the current is ripping north or south look for that keyhole you want to get out through and adjust your position appropriately on the paddle out.
The thing that sucks once you are out though is hoping that the gods are with you and that you can stay in position for those beautiful world class waves and they are world class on those epic days.
Also make sure you have a quality leash because you will be coming in through the bombs, not the channel if you loose your board. When its big you think about what could go wrong and plan for it so you aren't wondering why you are drifting out to sea without a board. Calmly drift out and wait till you are not going out any more then swim toward the bombs north for north current s for s.
May the gods be with you.
I think ###### is one of the easier paddles on big days, that is why I only go out there on big days if i really want to charge.. There are two very clearly defined rips to get out.
I have been out of the water for a week and a half or so and I decided to go out on the north side when the tide was a little flooded to make sure I could get out easier since I need to regain my paddling rythm and strangely there was not much current.
My two cents is to paddle out in one of the quasi channels that dynamically exist in front of the ###### at the ###### of the beach. The ###### paddle out is usually much easier than south of ######. Go in after the tide starts dropping and you'll be swept to the south unless you are a bit too far north of the ###### where this is a weird counter-current that will sweep you north into a bizarre dead zone toward the rocks. Once you are out (expect anywhere from 20 - 40 duck dives on a day like today), you will be swept to the south. I don't fight the current on a big tidal swing, just go with the flow. There will be plenty of peaks to hit as you drift south. It's then about wave management and not riding them in too far unless you like aerobic activity on the paddle back out. @THEDUDE is right about the quality leash. My leash broke last week and the swim in is always a bit nerve wracking depending upon the swell, currents and you ability to imagine what lurks beneath. Thanks for asking for help. I've had great experiences in the islands over years and I appreciated the help that I received from people like you. Aloha.
@stokereport - this seems like a solid thread to add to the FAQ or Links (e.g. "OB Tips").
Willy might be on to something. This is the thread. It's not 100% upbeat but neither is OB so having a scoop of reality mixed in with the encouragement might not be the worst thing ever.
It's funny to hear you say that you, "spent a lot of time paddling, not much time riding waves" yesterday. That's a pretty common Ocean Beach experience.
Whenever I'm teaching someone how to surf, I explain that there are three distinct phases in the game of surfing. I explain that the first phase starts on the beach and finishes after successfully padding out. The second phase starts after the paddle out and includes getting in position, staying in position, and concludes with making the drop. And, that the third phase is where you're up on your feet and riding the wave. I've noticed that friends who grew up swimming excel at the first phase. Friends who grew up whitewater kayaking excel at the second. And, friends who grew up skateboarding or snowboarding excel at the third.
Ocean Beach will make you really good at phases one and two. When I moved here from the North Shore of Oahu (I lived at Ke Iki Beach for two years learning to surf, bodysurf, and spearfish) my phase one and two game were good, but in my mind they were just tools to get me to phase three. Riding the wave is what surfing was about. Living here, my outlook has changed. At OB, phases one and two aren't just tools. They're a very equal -- potentially dominant -- part of the surfing experience. You'll learn to love them. I do. That is, until I go on trips to places with great waves and easy paddle outs. Then, I wish that I surfed Santa Cruz and practiced phase three more...
In addition to the advice you've gotten so far, I recommend spending as much time as you can in or on the local waters. Get to know how they work. Get to know how they move. You can get a really good and protected open water swimming experience in the bay at aquatic park. In the off-season, you can join a canoe club. There are plenty of clubs in the Northern California Outrigger Canoe Association that practice regularly. The kanu o'hana is strong and very welcoming. Jamming out several miles in an OC6 is a good workout and a great way to spend time on the water when the waves are junk.
If you ever miss the islands, the bay area is packed with plenty of things Hawai'i style. If you're missing poke, da Hukilau, Takahashi Market, Bristol Farms, and Tokyo Fish Market all make it. The Sam Choy Poke Festival even makes it's one mainland stop during September here in San Francisco. Fresh poi you can get from Tokyo Fish Market and Takahashi Market. If you crave L and L, there are plenty around. Or, if you want fancy, there's a Roy's here. There's even a Pacific Islanders' Cultural Association that hosts an annual Aloha Festival in August.
Welcome to the mainland.
I agree w/ mr_poop_head on ###### being one of the easier paddle outs on big days. ###### and anything b/w ###### and Quintara seem the worst. Easiest is VF's. Kirkham/###### are also a safe bet.
In add'n to all of the great advice here, the most common mistake at OB for getting out and getting waves is being under gunned. The waves are ALWAYS bigger than the seem and there's usually current. Surf a board a 6-12 inches longer than you usually do (the biggest plank you can duck dive) and you'll get outside and to the peaks relatively more easily. At least that has been my experience. (I'm also staring 40 in the face, so foam is my friend.)
And yes, zig-zag, look for the channel (there are some out there) and take the currents into account b/f choosing your paddle out point. Otherwise, you'll miss that 'channel.' Just like everyone has mentioned.
Good luck, bro. I'm an islander as well, but from Puerto Rico, and the waves there get big, but don't pack nearly as much of a punch.
Welcome to OB.
