Mid-beach post-throttled-session. Some delicious looking waves but OB is serving up some big helpings of beatdown. Inside is HH and throwing. Outside is OH and throwing. Sets are DH and throwing. I made it to the outside (ha!) twice just to get obliterated by sets breaking further out. Offshore and fast walls. Probably better later in the day as the tide drops. The yellow/brown foam is mighty yummy tasting!
Man, can't believe it. Was pretty sick at ######, sets solid overhead pushing double. Not as heavy as yesterday, but still pretty mean. After a couple, I took a super late drop on a big left, made it, grabbed rail, pulled in - but not fast enough I guess - and the lip hit me on the head. I come up and my board has a huge crease on the top and the stringer is clearly snapped. Damn. It still felt reasonably solid though and I caught a half decent right hander in. But totally gutted as now both of my boards are out of action! I put some more glass on the one I broke on Monday, so hopefully that one will be water tight for tomorrow. Anyone selling something around 6'6"? I think I'll be able to fix the one I broke today, but it will probably take me a week or so.
Today was my kinda surf. Medium to slightly big, reasonable paddle and perfect waves with very few people out. Thank you OB!
@Phyfedog I might be interested. I can't email you from your profile page. Perhaps you'd like to email me your details from my profile page? Glad to hear you guys scored.
Best part of my session this morning was taking a lip-bomb on the head and then getting my gloves blown off in the machine. That was LOL, as they were dangling off my hands. So.much.energy!
